Fisher & Paykel Oven Error Code F3

When a Fisher & Paykel oven throws Error Code F3, the control is seeing an over-temperature condition—typically the sensor reports ~600°F (315°C) or higher during a normal cook cycle. In plain English: the oven believes it’s much hotter than it should be, so it shuts things down to protect wiring, elements, and electronics. Sometimes the cavity really is getting too hot; other times the temperature sensor or wiring is misreporting.

What the F3 Fault Really Is

The oven’s NTC temperature sensor constantly feeds resistance values to the control. If those readings jump out of the expected range—or never settle during preheat—the board flags F3. That can happen because a sensor failed, a connector loosened, an element is sticking “on,” or the control/power module is mismanaging heat.

You’ll usually notice one or more of these:

• Preheat races upward and then the oven shuts down with F3
• Bake or broil won’t hold setpoint; food scorches on top
• A hot, “cooked electronics” smell near the control panel

Common Causes (from most to least likely)

• Temperature sensor fault: cracked sheath, drifted resistance, or a loose/corroded plug
• Element or relay issue: a bake/broil element shorting to chassis, or a stuck relay on the power module keeping heat on too long
• Airflow/cooling problem: failed cavity/cooling fan, blocked vents, or a collapsed door gasket trapping excess heat at the sensor
• Control (power module) failure: rare, but possible after surges or prolonged overheat events

Safe DIY First Steps (simple, targeted, and tool-light)

Unplug the range or switch the breaker off before any hands-on checks.

1. Power reset
   Kill power for 5–10 minutes. Restore power and run a quick Bake at 300°F. If F3 returns immediately, move on—this isn’t a one-off glitch.
2. Visual checks
   Open the door and inspect the temperature sensor probe on the back wall. It should be straight, intact, and firmly mounted. Look at the door gasket for tears or flat spots and make sure nothing metal is touching the probe.
3. Connector reseat
   With power off, remove the rear or control access panel (model-dependent). Locate the sensor harness plug at the control and the sensor end if accessible. Reseat each connector once with a straight, firm push. If you see green/white corrosion or browned plastic, note it—that’s a clue.
4. Quick element look-over
   Still powered off, inspect the bake and broil elements for visible breaks, blisters, or spots where the sheath looks burned. Any obvious damage calls for replacement rather than more testing.

If you have a multimeter and feel comfortable using it: disconnect the sensor and measure its room-temperature resistance (many read around 1–1.1kΩ at ~70°F; check your model’s spec). Infinite (open) or near-zero (short) ohms points to a bad sensor or harness.

When the Fix Is Straightforward

• Bad or drifting temperature sensor → replace the sensor (match by full model number)
• Loose/oxidized sensor plug → clean/dry carefully and reseat; secure strain reliefs so it won’t loosen again
• Damaged door gasket → replace the gasket so heat stays even and off the panel electronics

If F3 still returns after a good sensor and solid connections, the power module or a stuck element relay is the next suspect and calls for professional diagnosis.

When to Call a Pro

• F3 trips immediately after reset and a cool start
• The oven overheats physically (visible smoke/hot smells) or elements glow when they shouldn’t
• Sensor value looks normal on a meter, but F3 still appears
• You found heat-damaged wiring, connectors, or control board browning

A technician will meter the sensor across temperatures, perform live relay/element drive tests, verify cooling fan operation, and rule out an element short to chassis. If needed, they’ll replace the sensor, a sub-harness, an element, or the power module with the correct Fisher & Paykel parts.

Smart Habits That Help Prevent F3

You don’t have to baby the oven—just keep heat and airflow under control.

• Mind ventilation. Keep rear and top vents clear inside the cabinet cutout; confirm the cooling fan runs during high-temp baking.
• Protect the sensor. Don’t rest trays or foil against the rear probe; avoid foils that block airflow across the back wall.
• Use self-clean sparingly. It’s extremely hot and accelerates connector fatigue; if you do run it, inspect the door gasket after.
• Avoid spill “bakes.” Sugar and grease can carbonize on elements, creating hot spots; wipe major spills once the cavity cools.
• Annual quick check. Pop the rear/control cover (power off), scan for dusty fans, loose plugs, or browned connectors—60 seconds, big payoff.

Quick Action Plan (bookmark this)

• Reset power → test Bake 300°F
• Inspect/ reseat sensor connectors → re-test
• Replace sensor if readings are out of spec or intermittent
• If F3 returns with a good sensor and clean plugs → pro diagnosis for element/relay/power module

Want a precise, no-guesswork repair? Our factory-trained oven specialists work with Fisher & Paykel daily, use genuine OEM parts, and can often come same day.