Fisher & Paykel Refrigerator Error Code Fault Code 28

When a Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 28, it’s pointing at the ice maker solenoid—the small, hard-working valve that controls water flow into the ice maker. If that solenoid can’t open and close on command, you’ll see slow or no ice, odd-sized cubes, or occasional water hiccups. The good news: many causes are simple to spot, and addressing them early protects the valve, the control, and your kitchen from leaks.

What this fault really means

Inside your fridge’s dispenser system, the control board sends power to the solenoid to admit water into the ice mold. Fault Code 28 tells you that the control doesn’t “like” what it’s seeing from that circuit—either the solenoid isn’t responding electrically, the wiring isn’t delivering the signal, or something upstream on the control side is off. In plain English: the fridge asked for ice water, and the valve didn’t behave.

Common symptoms at a glance

• No ice production, or ice only every few cycles
• Hollow or misshapen cubes
• Intermittent water dispenser issues that appear alongside ice problems

Likely causes (from most to least common)

• Solenoid wear or internal failure. Coils age, plungers stick, and mineral buildup can keep the valve from opening fully.
• Wiring or connector trouble. Loose spades, oxidized pins, or a nicked harness near the hinge or behind the cover can break the signal.
• Control logic or relay issue. Less common, but a weak control output can mimic a bad solenoid.

Safe first steps (before tools come out)

Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker. Give it five minutes powered down, then restore power and let the unit settle. If Fault Code 28 reappears, move to targeted checks rather than repeating resets.

DIY checks you can do carefully

Keep it simple, keep it safe, and stop if you feel out of your depth.

1. Look and listen.
   Open the freezer, start an ice cycle if possible, and listen near the inlet area. A healthy valve clicks when energized. No click plus a returning 28 strongly hints at a solenoid or wiring issue.
2. Inspect what you can see.
   With power off, check the harness and connectors leading to the ice maker and inlet valve assembly. You’re looking for loose plugs, corrosion (green/white), or insulation rubbing on a sharp edge. Reseat once—firm, straight push—no forcing.
3. Water supply sanity check.
   Make sure the household shutoff is fully open and the filter isn’t massively overdue. A starved water line won’t cause 28 by itself, but it can create confusing symptoms alongside it.
4. Continuity test (optional for the confident DIYer).
   If you’re comfortable with a multimeter: disconnect the solenoid leads and check coil continuity. Readings near zero (short) or infinite (open) indicate a failed solenoid. If the coil reads reasonable ohms but wiggling the harness makes it jump, suspect the connector.

If the fault returns after a clean reseat—or you found heat discoloration, brittle wire, or a cracked connector—skip further guesswork and plan a part replacement/repair.

What a professional will do (and why it helps)

A tech will meter the solenoid under load, confirm voltage from the control during an ice call, and test the harness end-to-end. If the solenoid is bad, they’ll replace it with the model-correct valve and bleed air from the line to prevent hammering. If wiring is compromised, they’ll repair or replace the affected sub-harness. For control issues, they’ll verify relay output and board health so you’re not replacing the wrong part.

Smart fixes you can do without over-disassembling

• Reseat and secure any reachable connectors so vibration won’t loosen them.
• Tidy the harness path so it isn’t rubbing metal or kinked near a hinge.
• Replace the water filter if it’s overdue; good flow reduces strain on the valve.

If you’re replacing the solenoid yourself, match by full model/serial and use new seals. Always leak-test after reassembly.

Prevention that actually works

You don’t need to baby the fridge—just add a few habits:

• Keep water flow healthy. Replace filters on schedule and open the shutoff fully; low flow encourages chattering valves and odd cubes.
• Mind mineral buildup. In hard-water areas, use manufacturer-approved filters and consider periodic descaling at the inlet (a tech can advise).
• Avoid pinches. After cleaning or moving the unit, make sure the refrigerator isn’t pushed so far back that it kinks the water line or harness.
• Seasonal check-in. Once or twice a year, verify the line is dry around fittings and that connectors look clean and snug.

Quick action plan

• Power reset once → check for obvious wiring/connector issues → confirm water supply and filter.
• If 28 returns and you hear no valve click: suspect solenoid or control output—schedule diagnosis.
• Found corrosion, heat damage, or a broken clip? Repair/replace the affected part before running more ice cycles.

Prefer a fast, no-guesswork fix? Our factory-trained Fisher & Paykel specialists handle these faults daily and install the right OEM parts.