Fisher & Paykel Dryer Error Code F5

When a Fisher & Paykel dryer throws Error Code F5, it’s telling you the machine detected exhaust air that’s too hot—typically above the expected operating range (around 90°C / 194°F). In plain English: the dryer can’t get rid of heat fast enough. That usually points to airflow problems, but sensors and controls can be involved too. The good news? Most F5 cases start with simple checks you can do at home.

What the F5 fault really means

Your dryer monitors temperature as air moves through the drum, heater, and out the vent. If that hot air can’t escape, temperature climbs faster than the control expects and F5 appears. Think of the venting pathway like a highway: lint, crushed ducting, long runs, or outside hoods stuck shut are “traffic jams” that trap heat and trigger the alarm.

You might notice longer dry times, a hotter cabinet than usual, or clothes that feel exceptionally warm—or, the cycle may stop early and flash F5. Gas and electric models share the same principle: restricted airflow = rising temperature.

Common root causes (beyond “clean the lint filter”)

• A lint filter with a thin film of detergent or fabric softener that looks clean but flows poorly
• Vent duct runs that are too long, kinked, flattened, or made from flimsy foil that collapses under airflow
• An exterior vent hood clogged with lint, stuck by paint, or blocked by a bird screen
• A vent termination that opens into a small space (garage/attic/crawl) causing heat recirculation
• A partially obstructed blower wheel or housing inside the dryer
• Faulty temperature sensing (failed thermistor) or a sticking heater relay causing runaway heat

Quick first checks (safe and simple)

1. Clean the lint filter thoroughly
   Wash it with warm water and a drop of dish soap, then rinse and dry. Residue from dryer sheets and softeners reduces airflow even when the screen “looks” clear.
2. Inspect the duct you can see
   Pull the dryer forward and look at the first few feet of venting. If it’s crushed, kinked, or the cheap accordion foil, replace it with smooth rigid or semi-rigid metal and keep the path as straight as possible.
3. Step outside
   Run the dryer on air-only and check the exterior vent. The damper should open freely with a strong, steady flow of warm air during a heated cycle. Remove lint clumps and clear any screen; the flap should swing without sticking.

If F5 clears after these steps and the dryer finishes a normal load at normal time, you likely fixed the restriction. If it returns, go deeper.

DIY troubleshooting flow (minimal tools, maximum signal)

Start with airflow, then verify heat control. Keep the machine unplugged (or gas off) whenever you’re removing panels.

• Airflow test with a towel: With the duct disconnected at the dryer, run a timed-dry cycle for a minute and feel the exhaust. You should get a strong, even blast of air. Strong at the dryer but weak at the exterior hood = vent problem between the two. Weak right at the dryer = blower or internal blockage.
• Short-run experiment: Temporarily vent the dryer into a lint trap or short test hose (for testing only). If F5 disappears, your external vent path needs correction.
• Blower inspection (if accessible): Lint can mat on the blower wheel. A quick clean can restore volume.
• Temperature sanity check: On a heated cycle, the element (electric) or burner (gas) should cycle—heat on, then off, then on. If heat seems “stuck on,” the control/relay may be over-firing, pushing temperatures past the limit.

If you own a multimeter and know how to use it safely, you can check continuity on thermal cutoffs and compare thermistor resistance against service specs. If not, skip this and move to professional service—mis-testing heat circuits can be risky.

When to stop and call a professional

• F5 returns immediately after a full clean and a verified clear vent path
• Outside airflow is strong, but the dryer still overheats or cycles erratically
• You suspect a failed thermistor, sticking heater relay, or damaged wiring
• Gas models with burner cycling that looks abnormal (long flame, no cycling, raw-gas smell)

A trained technician will measure real-time temps at the exhaust, verify airflow (CFM), meter the thermistor through a temperature sweep, and load-test the heater relay. If a safety cutoff has opened, they’ll replace it and correct the root cause so it doesn’t fail again.

Practical fixes you can do without over-disassembly

• Replace crushed or extra-long vent runs with short, straight, rigid duct and sealed elbows
• Clean the exterior hood and ensure the damper swings freely; remove any restrictive screen
• Wash the lint screen monthly to remove invisible residue
• Reposition the dryer so the hose isn’t pinched when you push it back into place

Prevention: small habits, big payoff

Airflow is everything. Keep the path clean and short, and F5 stays away.

• Right duct, right length: Use rigid or semi-rigid metal only; minimize total length and elbows
• Monthly lint care: Wash the lint screen with soapy water to remove softener film
• Quarterly vent check: Vacuum behind the dryer and inspect the first elbow; verify the outdoor flap opens fully
• Annual deep clean: Have the entire vent line professionally cleaned if runs are long or go through a ceiling/roof
• Load size & fabrics: Oversized, tightly packed loads trap moisture and heat; mix heavy and light fabrics for better tumble and airflow
• Room ventilation: Make sure the laundry room itself isn’t starved for make-up air, especially in tight homes

Quick FAQ

Does F5 always mean a bad sensor?
No. Most F5 reports are airflow-related. Replace parts only after airflow is proven good.

Is flexible foil vent acceptable?
It’s widely discouraged. It crushes easily, sheds lint, and raises fire/overheat risk. Choose rigid or quality semi-rigid metal.

Can I keep using the dryer with F5 cleared temporarily?
If F5 returns or the cabinet feels unusually hot, stop and correct the root cause. Repeated overheating can damage thermostats, sensors, and wiring.

Gas vs. electric—does it change the diagnosis?
The airflow checks are identical. Heating control differs (burner vs. element), but both will overheat if venting is poor.