When a Fisher & Paykel dryer flashes Error Code F15, the machine is telling you it has seen unstable power—specifically, multiple brownouts (voltage dips) in a very short window. To protect electronics and heating components, the dryer aborts the cycle and shows F15. In most cases, this isn’t a “bad dryer” problem; it’s a power quality problem the dryer is smart enough to detect.
What the Fault Actually Is
Inside the control, voltage is monitored continuously. F15 (“Fault Brown Out”) means the supply dropped below the safe threshold (commonly flagged when it falls under ~180 VAC) enough times in about a minute for the control to call it unsafe. Eight dips in 60 seconds is the typical trigger point. The dryer stops on purpose rather than trying to run on weak power.
You’ll usually notice one or more of these behavior clues before F15 appears: unusually dim lights elsewhere in the home when big appliances start, the dryer stalling partway into a cycle, or repeated restarts that never complete.
Why F15 Happens (Root Causes in Plain English)
Frequent culprits include neighborhood or household power and wiring conditions—not the dryer itself:
- Voltage fluctuations on the circuit — heavy loads cycling on/off (HVAC compressor, space heaters, microwaves) causing brief sags.
- Shared or undersized circuits — the dryer competing with other devices or fed by long/undersized wire runs.
- Loose or heat-tired connections — worn receptacles, weak lugs in the breaker panel, or a marginal cord/plug.
- Extension cords or power strips — added resistance creates extra drop during heat or motor start.
- Utility-side issues — temporary brownouts on the grid, especially during peak demand or storms.
Safe DIY Steps (Start Simple, Gather Signal)
Begin with safety: power off the dryer before touching cords or receptacles. You’re not opening panels here—just basic checks to separate a “house power” issue from an “appliance” issue.
- Give it a clean restart
Unplug the dryer (or switch the breaker off) for 5–10 minutes. Restore power and run a short cycle. If F15 returns quickly, keep going—this points to ongoing voltage instability. - Eliminate easy causes
- Plug the dryer directly into a dedicated outlet—no extension cords, power strips, or relocatable taps.
- Avoid running other big loads (space heaters, portable ACs) on the same circuit during a test cycle.
- If your outlet or plug feels hot, looks discolored, or the plug feels loose, stop using it until it’s inspected.
- Check home voltage (non-invasive)
If you have a simple outlet voltmeter or a true-RMS multimeter and know how to use it safely, note the resting voltage and then watch during heat or motor start. Dips toward or below ~180 VAC are consistent with F15 triggers. (If you’re not comfortable measuring, skip this and go to the next step.) - Try a different dedicated outlet (if available)
In some homes, a laundry room may have more than one suitable receptacle or a nearby circuit with better stability. A quick A/B test can tell you a lot about whether the problem follows the outlet or the appliance.
If F15 clears after these steps and stays gone, you likely had a borderline connection or a temporary supply sag. If it returns, move on to deeper checks.
What You Can Fix Without Opening the Dryer
These are low-risk, homeowner-level improvements that often resolve intermittent brownouts:
- Remove any extension cords or adapters—go direct and shorten cable length where possible.
- Reduce competing loads—avoid running high-draw appliances on the same circuit during drying.
- Improve airflow around the cord and outlet—heat buildup accelerates contact wear.
If you suspect the outlet is loose or the cord/plug is heat-stressed (scorch marks, softening, odor), it’s time for a qualified electrician to replace the worn parts and torque connections properly.
When to Bring in a Professional
Call a licensed electrician if any of the following sound familiar:
- Lights dim when the dryer or HVAC starts, especially in nearby rooms.
- The receptacle is loose, discolored, or hot to the touch.
- The breaker trips or feels unusually warm.
- Voltage measures low or sags notably under load.
- You’re on an older panel and aren’t sure about wire gauge or terminations.
A pro can check feeder voltage, verify neutral integrity, assess circuit loading, replace a tired receptacle, and correct panel terminations. If house power checks out and F15 persists, a technician can then evaluate the dryer’s power cord, internal harness, and control board to rule out an appliance-side sensitivity or connection fault.
Preventing F15 in the Future
You don’t need specialty equipment—just a few smart habits to keep voltage stable where your dryer cares about it most.
- Dedicated, properly sized circuit
Make sure the dryer is on the correct breaker and wire gauge per installation specs. Avoid sharing that circuit with other big loads. - Healthy connections
Replace outlets and cords that show wear, looseness, or discoloration. Poor contact equals heat and voltage drop. - No extensions, no power strips
Extra resistance means extra voltage sag during heater or motor startup. - Manage peak loads
Stagger heavy appliances (oven, HVAC, EV charger, space heaters) so they don’t all hit at once, especially in older homes. - Watch seasonal patterns
Power quality can dip during heat waves or storms. If F15 only appears at certain times of day, note the pattern—it’s valuable info for an electrician or the utility.
F15 protects your dryer by refusing to run on poor power. Solve the voltage issue—often as simple as fixing a weak outlet, removing an extension cord, or separating heavy loads—and the fault disappears. If you’ve ruled out home power problems and still see F15, a targeted appliance inspection will settle the rest quickly.

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