Fisher & Paykel Dryer Error Code LO

When a Fisher & Paykel dryer throws LO, it isn’t “broken”—it’s protecting itself. The control is telling you the room is too cold for normal drying. Heat-pump and condenser dryers, in particular, rely on room-temperature air to exchange heat; when the ambient dips below roughly 2°C / 36°F, efficiency crashes, moisture won’t condense properly, sensors misread, and the cycle may stall or end with damp laundry.

What the LO Fault Really Means

In plain English: the dryer can’t warm or condense moisture effectively because the surrounding air is below the operating threshold. That can happen in unheated garages, basements, porches, or utility rooms during cold snaps. The machine halts or refuses to start to avoid long, inefficient runs and icing inside the system.

You might notice: longer cycles, cool discharge air, damp loads even after “dry,” and then LO on the display—especially first thing in the morning when the room is coldest.

Why Low Room Temperature Breaks Drying

Dryers need a temperature “spread” to move heat and moisture. When the room is too cold:

• Heat transfer collapses. There isn’t enough temperature difference for efficient evaporation/condensation.
• Sensors get fooled. Thermistors may read out of expected ranges, prompting a protective stop.
• Coils can chill. On heat-pump models, coils can get so cold that moisture condenses where it shouldn’t (or even frosts), stalling the process.

Quick DIY Steps (Start Here)

Keep this simple—no tools required.

1. Measure the room, not the laundry.
   If you don’t have a thermometer, use a smart thermostat or even a weather app as a proxy. Aim for > 2°C / 36°F; realistically, try for 50–86°F (10–30°C) for reliable performance.
2. Warm the space.
   Close outside doors, turn on a space heater safely, or bump the HVAC for an hour. Many LO alerts clear once the room rises into a normal range.
3. Let the dryer acclimate.
   If the cabinet itself is cold-soaked, give it 30–60 minutes in the warmer room before restarting a cycle.
4. Power reset (after warming).
   Turn the dryer off, wait 2–3 minutes, then back on to clear the stored fault. Start with a shorter timed cycle to confirm normal heat and airflow.

If LO returns in a now-warm room, move to the checks below.

Smart Checks If LO Persists (Room Is Warm Enough)

We’re still keeping things user-friendly—minimal disassembly.

• Placement & drafts
  Make sure the dryer isn’t sitting in a cold draft from a garage door, cellar bulkhead, or leaky exterior vent. Cold air blowing across the intake can trick the sensors even if the rest of the room is warm.
• Vent & airflow sanity (for vented models)
  A stuck exterior flap or crushed hose can cause strange temperature behavior. Confirm the vent hood opens freely and the duct isn’t collapsed; excessive back-pressure can keep exhaust air too cool.
• Louvered door gaps (for closets)
  If the dryer lives in a closet, ensure the door has ventilation grilles or a gap per the installation guide. Starved makeup air behaves like “cold air,” flattening temperature rise.
• Sensor logic reset
  Run a short timed-dry with a small load. If that works but auto cycles still fail, moisture-sensor strips might be damp/filmy. Wipe them with a soft cloth and a bit of white vinegar, dry, and retry.

If the ambient is clearly above 50°F and LO still appears, a tech should evaluate temperature sensors (thermistors), control calibration, and—on heat-pump units—the defrost/coil behavior.

Good Habits That Prevent LO

Short, realistic practices that keep cycles predictable.

• Place the dryer in a conditioned space.
  If possible, avoid unheated garages or exterior sheds. If you must, insulate walls and weather-strip the door to reduce overnight temperature dips.
• Schedule loads for warmer hours.
  Morning loads in a garage are the most likely to trigger LO. Late morning or afternoon helps, especially in winter.
• Mind the room’s ventilation.
  Balanced airflow matters. For vented dryers, keep the duct run short and smooth with a working exterior flap; for condenser/heat-pump dryers, ensure the room can absorb a bit of heat without dropping below spec.
• Keep the machine clean.
  Empty the lint filter every cycle and clean heat-exchanger/condenser surfaces per the manual. Restricted airflow makes the system more sensitive to borderline temperatures.
• Cold-weather prep.
  Before a freeze, pre-warm the space or move the dryer temporarily if feasible. A small ceramic heater aimed at the room, not the dryer, can be enough to stay above the threshold.

When It’s Time for Service

Call in a professional if:

• LO reappears despite a verified warm room
• The dryer shows inconsistent temperatures across cycles
• You hear unusual fan noises or see errors alongside LO after warm-up
• The unit is a heat-pump model and you suspect coil icing or a defrost control issue

A technician can confirm ambient and internal sensor readings, test the thermistor(s), check fan performance, verify control logic, and rule out vent or condenser restrictions.

Quick Recap (Bookmark This)

• LO = room too cold. Target > 36°F / 2°C; ideally 10–30°C (50–86°F).
• Warm the space → let the dryer acclimate → power reset → try a short timed cycle.
• Fix drafts and airflow. Check vents, doors, and makeup air.
• Prevent with placement, insulation, and routine cleaning.
• Still LO in a warm room? Time for sensor/control diagnostics.

Write to me with your exact model if you want this refined with model-specific locations for filters, heat-exchanger panels, and sensor access.