Fisher & Paykel Dryer Error Code Err3 or E3

When a Fisher & Paykel dryer throws Err3 or E3, it’s telling you the control isn’t getting a believable temperature signal from the NTC1 exhaust thermistor—the sensor that monitors exhaust air as clothes dry. If that reading is missing, out of range, or erratic, the dryer can’t manage heat correctly. You may see cycles that run forever, shut down early, or finish with damp loads.

What this fault really means

The NTC1 is a tiny, sealed resistor that changes value as temperature changes. The control expects that value to move in a predictable curve during a normal cycle. Err3/E3 appears when the control “sees” an open circuit, short circuit, or a temperature curve that doesn’t add up. Sometimes the sensor itself is fine and the real problem is a loose, corroded, or heat-stressed connector in the short wiring harness leading back to the control.

Typical signs before or alongside the code: longer dry times, cool exhaust air when you expect heat, or a cycle that pauses/restarts without explanation.

Likely causes (in plain English)

• A failed thermistor capsule that no longer changes resistance correctly
• Damaged or oxidized wiring/connector between the NTC1 and the control board
• Less common: a control input that can’t read a good sensor because of moisture or prior heat damage

Safety first, then a simple reset

Unplug the dryer or switch off the breaker for 5–10 minutes. This clears transient glitches and lets the control reboot. If Err3/E3 returns quickly after power is restored, move on to inspection.

Smart DIY checks (minimal disassembly)

Start with what’s easy and low-risk; you won’t need to strip the machine down.

1. Find the thermistor area
   The exhaust thermistor is typically mounted on or near the exhaust duct close to the heater/blower housing. With power off, remove the rear lower panel or toe-kick (model dependent) to sight the sensor and its two-wire harness.
2. Look, then touch
   Use a flashlight to inspect the sensor body and the short harness. You’re hunting for browned plastic, brittle insulation, or a connector that wiggles too easily. If you see light oxidation (green/white on pins), unplug and reseat the connector once with a firm, straight push.
3. Quick sanity test with a multimeter (optional)
   With the dryer still unpowered and the thermistor unplugged, measure resistance across the two thermistor pins at room temperature. You should get a steady, non-zero value (exact ohms vary by part and temperature).

• Infinite / OL ⇒ open circuit (broken sensor or wire)
• Near 0Ω ⇒ shorted sensor or pinched wire
  If the reading jumps around when you gently wiggle the harness, the connector or wire is suspect.

4. Airflow basics
   A wildly restricted exhaust can keep temperatures from behaving. Verify the lint filter is clean and the vent run isn’t crushed or packed with lint. Restoring airflow won’t fix a bad sensor, but it prevents new faults and helps you retest accurately.

If the code persists after a careful reseat and airflow check, the thermistor is likely done.

Replacing the NTC1 (straightforward, model-aware)

Swapping the sensor is usually a simple remove-and-replace:

• Disconnect power, remove the panel for access, photograph the routing so you can put it back exactly the same
• Unplug the sensor, swap it with the correct part for your model, and route the harness in its factory clips (away from sharp edges and hot metal)
• Reassemble, restore power, and run a timed-dry test to confirm normal heat and no fault

If you also noticed heat-stressed connectors, consider replacing the short sub-harness to the control rather than reusing a compromised plug.

When to bring in a technician

If resistance readings look normal but the code won’t clear, or if you see melted insulation, a pro can:

• Test the sensor across several temperatures to confirm the curve
• Load-test the heater circuit and verify control input readings
• Replace the sensor or sub-harness and inspect the board for heat/moisture damage

Preventing Err3 / E3 in the future

Keep the sensor and wiring out of trouble and the control happy.

• Vent health first. Clean the lint filter every load and brush out the vent run routinely. Poor airflow overheats components and skews temperature behavior.
• Keep connectors dry. Avoid spraying cleaners into panel gaps; moisture in plugs leads to corrosion and bad readings.
• Mind installation. Don’t crush the vent or push the dryer so tight that wiring rubs or kinks.
• Seasonal lint audit. Pop the access panel a couple of times a year to vacuum lint around the blower/heater area—great for safety and sensor life.
• Gentle resets. If a storm or outage trips odd codes, do a single 5–10-minute power reset. If a code returns, diagnose—don’t keep cycling power.

Quick action plan

• Power reset → confirm clean filter and clear vent
• Inspect and reseat the NTC1 connector; look for heat/corrosion
• Optional meter test: replace the thermistor if open/short/unstable
• Retest on a timed-dry cycle; if Err3/E3 returns, replace the sensor or have the harness/control evaluated

Handled promptly, an Err3/E3 thermistor error is a clean, confidence-building repair—and your Fisher & Paykel dryer will be back to fast, even, reliable drying.