When a Fisher & Paykel dishwasher throws Error Code A60, it’s flagging a water-temperature problem. In plain terms, the control isn’t seeing the temperature it expects during the wash or heat phase. That can happen if incoming water is too cold, the heater can’t raise the temperature, or the temperature sensor isn’t reporting accurately. The result is weak cleaning, poor drying, and cycles that stall or end early.
What the A60 code really means
Your dishwasher tracks how quickly water warms and whether it reaches target temperatures. A60 appears when the temperature curve is wrong—either because the inlet water starts too cold, the heating element doesn’t energize as it should, or the thermistor/temperature sensor sends values that don’t make sense. Sometimes the parts are fine but a connector is loose, which looks like a bad reading to the control.
Typical signs you’ll notice: cooler-than-usual interior during mid-cycle, cloudy glasses from under-heating, or a cycle that finishes with dishes still damp.
Quick sanity checks (no tools)
Start simple and safe. Unplug the unit or switch off power at the breaker before touching panels; restore power only when told.
- Power reset: Turn the dishwasher off for 5–10 minutes, then back on. This clears transient glitches that can trigger A60.
- Hot start at the sink: Run the kitchen tap until water is hot. Dishwashers assume a hot feed—starting with cold water makes the control think heating has failed.
- Loading & venting: Avoid tall items against the door vent and don’t block spray paths. While not a root cause of A60, poor airflow and heavy, cold loads make temperature recovery harder and can confuse timing.
The likely culprits (explained simply)
Incoming water too cold. If the home’s water heater is set low or a long run of pipe feeds the dishwasher, the machine spends too long trying to heat, tripping the error.
Heating element or relay issue. A weak or open heater, a failed high-limit cutoff, or a control relay that isn’t switching power will stall warm-up.
Thermistor (temperature sensor) fault. If the sensor is open, shorted, or drifting, the control can’t trust the reading.
Wiring/connector problems. Moisture, corrosion, or a half-seated plug in the heater or sensor circuit will mimic a bad part.
DIY steps that actually help
Work from easiest to more involved. If anything looks burnt or you smell electrical heat, stop and arrange service.
- Confirm hot supply and cycle choice
Open the hot tap first, then start a cycle that uses heat (e.g., Normal with heated dry). Many “eco” settings reduce heater use; choose a standard program for testing. - Check the inlet path
Make sure the water shutoff valve under the sink is fully open. If you’ve had debris in the plumbing, the inlet screen may be partially clogged—reduced flow can keep temperatures from climbing as expected. - Look at the vent and interior
Ensure the door vent isn’t blocked by a sheet pan or cutting board. Use rinse aid and load so air can circulate—better drying also helps the control “see” expected thermal behavior. - Inspect accessible wiring (toe-kick area)
Cut power. Remove the toe-kick panel and visually inspect the heater and sensor harness where it enters the sump or lower door area. Look for loose plugs, greenish oxidation, or nicked insulation. Reseat any reachable connector once with a firm, straight push. - Run a controlled test
Power on and run a Normal cycle with the tub empty. Mid-cycle, carefully touch the outer door—it should feel slightly warm. If the A60 returns at the same stage each time and the interior is still cool, the heater or its control path needs diagnosis.
When it’s time for a technician
If A60 reappears immediately after a reset, you find corrosion or heat damage on connectors, or the tub never gets warm even on a heated cycle, bring in a pro. A technician can:
- Measure thermistor resistance across temperatures to confirm drift vs. failure
- Load-test the heating element and verify the relay/high-limit circuit
- Inspect and, if needed, replace a sub-harness with the correct part for your exact model
Trying repeated resets on a genuine heating fault can stress the control board, so don’t keep cycling power if the error comes right back.
Practical fixes you can do without over-disassembly
Use a light touch—small changes go a long way.
- Reseat heater and sensor connectors you can access; ensure they “click” into place.
- Dry damp plugs with room air (or a hair dryer on cool) before reseating.
- Re-route any wire touching hot metal; keep it in the original clips and guides.
- If your inlet screen is visibly dirty, clean it gently so flow—and therefore heating—stays on track.
Habits that prevent A60 going forward
You don’t need special tools—just consistent setup.
- Hot tap first. Starting with genuinely hot water shortens warm-up and keeps the control happy.
- Use rinse aid and leave space. Good airflow and sheeting action improve both cleaning and the thermal profile the control expects.
- Descale monthly or bi-monthly in hard water. Mineral film insulates surfaces and slows heat transfer—run a citric-acid cleaner periodically.
- Fix small leaks promptly. Moisture around the toe-kick can wick into connectors and cause corrosion that leads to sensor/heater faults.
- Avoid overloading and “walling off” the door. Tall trays on the front edge trap steam and confuse drying/temperature readings.
- Annual quick check. Pop the toe-kick once a year to eyeball harness routing and dust; sixty seconds can prevent a surprise error.
Quick action plan
- Reset power → start with hot inlet water → run a heated cycle
- If A60 returns: power off → inspect and reseat accessible heater/thermistor connectors → test again
- Still seeing A60 or no warmth? Arrange professional diagnosis for the heater circuit and sensor
Handled promptly, Error Code A60 is more of a speed bump than a show-stopper. A few careful checks often restore proper temperatures—and if parts are needed, a targeted repair gets your Fisher & Paykel cleaning and drying like it should.

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