When a Fisher & Paykel washer flashes Error 10, 41, or 237, it’s almost always talking about the thermistor—the tiny temperature sensor the control uses to manage wash performance and drying logic (on models with active drying). When that reading goes missing or drifts out of range, the control can’t trust the water temperature and will stop or limp a cycle to protect the machine.
What this fault actually means
The thermistor is an NTC sensor: as temperature rises, its resistance drops in a predictable curve. The control checks that curve through the cycle. If it sees open circuit (infinite resistance), short circuit (near zero), or a reading that doesn’t change the way it should, you’ll get one of these codes.
You may notice symptoms before the fault: unusually long cycles, cool rinses when you expected warm, or a cycle that won’t finish even though the tub has drained.
Core causes (plain English)
Most cases come down to:
- A loose or oxidized connector in the thermistor circuit.
- A damaged harness—pinched, frayed, or heat-stressed insulation.
- A failed thermistor capsule that no longer tracks temperature correctly.
- Less common: control input issues that misread an otherwise good sensor.
Quick safety and reset
Start simple. Unplug the washer at the outlet or switch off the breaker for five minutes. This can clear a transient hiccup, but if the code returns in the same spot of the next cycle, it’s time for a closer look.
Smart DIY — minimal tools, maximum signal
Begin with what you can see and touch, then only go deeper if needed.
- Access and inspect
With power off, remove the lower kick panel or rear service panel (varies by model). Find the thermistor on the tub or in the inlet/recirculation path, and trace its wire harness to the control. - Reconnect and tidy
Gently reseat the thermistor connector and the control-end plug once. Look for green/white oxidation, bent pins, or anything that’s not fully seated. Reroute any wire that’s rubbing against metal edges; keep it in original clips/guides. - Resistance check (optional but definitive)
If you’re comfortable with a multimeter: unplug the thermistor lead and measure across the sensor at room temperature. Around 68°F (20°C), you should see ≈12.5 kΩ.
- Reads infinite → likely an open circuit (broken wire or failed sensor).
- Reads near zero → shorted sensor or crushed harness.
- Reads plausible at room temp but jumps or drops while you gently wiggle the harness → connector/harness fault.
- Re-test the machine
Reassemble covers, restore power, and run a Warm cycle. If the code doesn’t return and cycle heat now behaves, you likely had a poor connection. If the code pops back predictably, the thermistor or harness needs replacement.
What you can fix yourself (and what to leave)
It’s reasonable for a careful DIYer to:
- Clean and reseat connectors.
- Replace a clearly damaged sub-harness if you can match the part and crimps.
- Replace the thermistor itself if it’s a stand-alone part and access is straightforward on your model.
If access is cramped, wiring is brittle, or you’re unsure about parts, stop before guesswork turns a small sensor job into a control-board problem.
Why these codes matter
Running with a bad thermistor reading does more than annoy you: the washer may under-heat detergents (poor cleaning), over-heat when it shouldn’t (fabric damage risk), or loop trying to meet a target temperature it will never see. Addressing the fault promptly restores normal timings and protects components downstream.
Preventive habits that actually help
Keep the fix from becoming a frequent flyer with a few low-effort habits:
- Stable installation: Make sure the washer is level and not vibrating excessively—vibration works connectors loose over time.
- Keep moisture where it belongs: Don’t hose down the machine or flood the toe-kick area; moisture wicks into connectors and invites corrosion.
- Descale periodically: Hard water leaves mineral films that can skew temperature behavior. A citric-acid clean every month or two (frequency depends on your water) helps the system heat consistently.
- Cable sanity checks: During seasonal cleanups, pop the kick panel and give the harness a quick look for scuffs or pinches—thirty seconds now saves hours later.
- Use sensible temps: Select water temperatures that match your load; forcing extreme temps constantly isn’t kind to sensors or control timings.
Quick reference (bookmark this)
- Unplug 5–10 minutes → try again.
- Inspect/ reseat thermistor and control connectors.
- Measure: ~12.5 kΩ at 68°F is healthy; infinite/near-zero is not.
- Replace the thermistor or suspect harness if readings are off or the code returns at the same point in a cycle.
With a clear plan and a few careful checks, Errors 10, 41, or 237 stop being cryptic and start being fixable.
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