Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code 1, 57, 60, 107, 108, 112, 133,, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 230, 232, 233, 236, 243, 252 or 254

When a Fisher & Paykel washer flashes any of these codes—1, 57, 60, 107, 108, 112, 133, 220, 221, 222, 223, 224, 225, 226, 230, 232, 233, 236, 243, 252, 254—the machine is flagging a motor control module problem. That module is the brain-and-relay combo that tells the drive motor when to start, stop, speed up, slow down, and reverse. If it can’t talk to the motor—or the signals look wrong—the washer protects itself and throws one of these codes.

What this fault actually is

Inside the cabinet, the control electronics monitor motor feedback (speed, position, current draw) dozens of times per second. These codes appear when the system sees an open/shorted circuit, corrupt feedback, or out-of-range current in the motor drive pathway. Sometimes the module itself is failing; other times the harness, connectors, or motor windings are the real culprit. The end result is the same: the washer refuses to spin, stalls mid-cycle, or refuses to start.

Common signs you’ll notice

Cycles that won’t advance, a tub that won’t spin or only jerks, humming from below the tub, or a code that pops right after the wash tries to ramp into spin. On some models you’ll hear the drain pump run normally while the basket never takes off.

Why this happens

Heat, moisture, and vibration work against electronics over time. A splash trail can creep into a connector; a harness can chafe where it passes a sharp edge; a surge can scar a relay on the board. Heavy or unbalanced loads also stress the drive system and expose a weak module faster.

First things first: safe reset and basics

Unplug the washer or switch off the breaker for 5–10 minutes. Power back on and try a short cycle with the tub empty. If the same code returns quickly, the fault is persistent and you should move to checks rather than repeated resets.

Smart DIY checks before you think replacement

Keep it simple and methodical. You don’t need to disassemble the whole machine to learn a lot.

• Load and balance
  Run the machine empty, then with a few towels evenly distributed. If it only errors when loaded heavy, you may be chasing a borderline drive (module or motor) that trips under load.
• Harness and connector sanity check
  With power off, remove the rear or lower access panel. Follow the motor harness from the motor up to the motor control module. Look for loose plugs, green/white oxidation, pinched insulation, or a wire rubbed shiny against metal. Reseat each connector once—straight in until it clicks. If you see moisture, let it air-dry fully before reconnecting.
• Spin test feel
  Rotate the basket by hand. It should turn smoothly with light resistance from the gearbox/drive system. A grinding feel or sudden binding points to a mechanical drag that can trigger motor overcurrent faults.
• Drain path reality check
  A half-clogged drain won’t directly cause a motor code, but it can keep the machine stuck in transitions where the drive tries to ramp—fix the drain issue first so you aren’t misled by symptoms.

If you’re meter-comfortable, you can ohm the motor windings at the motor plug and compare phases for consistency, and you can inspect the module board for obvious burns. If any reading is open/short, or a connector is heat-discolored, the path forward is clear.

What a proper repair looks like

A correct fix starts with diagnosis, not guesswork. A technician will run service mode tests, meter the motor windings, load-test the module, and check wiring continuity end-to-end. Depending on findings, the solution is typically one of:

• Replacing the motor control module (and transferring any model-specific jumpers/firmware settings as required).
• Repairing or replacing a damaged harness or connector set.
• Addressing a mechanical drag (bearing, foreign object) that is overloading the drive and cascading into module faults.
• In rarer cases, replacing the drive motor if windings are out of spec.

Practical DIY you can do without going deep

• Reseat every reachable motor-path connector once and re-route any wire that’s rubbing a sharp edge.
• Clean light oxidation on pins with contact cleaner and let it dry completely before reconnecting.
• If you moved the washer, ensure hoses and the power cord aren’t tugging the cabinet or harness.

If codes return immediately after a clean reseat and an empty-tub test, continuing to run cycles can stress the electronics. At that point, a professional diagnostic is the fastest, least expensive path to a correct fix.

Habits that prevent these codes in the future

• Even, sensible loads
  Overstuffing or repeated heavy single-item spins (like a soaked blanket) pounds the drive system. Build loads that balance themselves.
• Keep moisture out of the electronics
  Wipe spills promptly, and don’t pressure-spray around the base or control area. If you ever see a leak, fix it before it wicks into connectors.
• Leave airflow space
  Don’t push the washer tight against the wall. Electronics and motors live longer with ventilation.
• Quarterly quick check
  Pop the access panel for a one-minute look: any chafed wires, darkened plugs, or lint nests around the module get addressed before they become a fault.

Quick action plan to remember

Start with a power reset → test empty → inspect and reseat harnesses → test with a light, balanced load. If the same code returns or you find heat damage/corrosion, schedule a proper diagnostic and be done with it. This set of Fisher & Paykel codes is the washer asking for help in the motor drive circuit—treat it early and you’ll save both time and parts.