Seeing 234, 235, 238, or 239 on a Fisher & Paykel washer usually points to a lid-lock problem. The machine won’t spin—or may not even start—until the control “sees” the lid safely latched. When that signal is missing or unstable, the control throws one of these codes and protects the motor from running with the lid open.
What these codes mean (in plain English)
Your washer uses a lid-lock switch with a built-in sensor. It reports “locked/unlocked” to the motor control module. If the lock can’t engage, if its wiring is loose, or if the reading is out of range, you’ll get 234/235/238/239. Think of it as a seatbelt light: the cycle won’t proceed until the latch status is valid.
Typical symptoms
- Code 234, 235, 238, or 239 appears on the display
- Washer won’t enter spin, or stops before spin
- You hear the lock try to click, then the cycle cancels
- Intermittent behavior after heavy loads or a recent clean
Why this fault happens
Most issues live in one of three places: the lock, the harness, or the control. Heat, vibration, and moisture can loosen spade connectors; detergent residue can wick into plugs; a tugged harness can break internal strands. Less often, the motor control module misreads a good lock because its input circuit has failed.
Small list, big value—common causes:
- Loose or oxidized lid-lock connector
- Damaged or pinched wire harness near the hinge/lock area
- Failed lid-lock (NTC/coil inside the assembly)
- Faulty input on the motor control module (rare, but possible)
Safety first, then a clean reset
Cut power at the breaker or unplug the washer for 5–10 minutes. This clears a “stuck” status and reboots the control. If the same code returns right after you press Start, move to inspection. Work only with power off and a dry floor.
DIY path that actually finds the problem
Start with what you can see and reach. You don’t need to strip the machine down—be methodical and gentle.
- Inspect and reseat the lid-lock plug
Open the top access (or front, depending on model) and find the lock connector. Unplug, check for green/white oxidation or bent pins, and plug it back in firmly until it clicks. Lightly tug to confirm it’s seated. - Trace the harness
Follow the small cable from the lock toward the control. Look for pinch points around hinges, rub marks on metal, or insulation that looks “flat” from a past squeeze. If you spot a nick or a stiff/brittle section, plan to replace the harness, not tape it. - Quick resistance check (for confident DIYers)
With the washer unplugged and the lock connector isolated, measure the lock’s resistance using a multimeter. For this platform, a healthy lock typically reads ~63 Ω.
- Open circuit (∞) or near-zero Ω = bad lock or broken harness.
- ~63 Ω but unstable when you wiggle the wire = failing connector/harness.
- Re-test the cycle
Restore power and run a small load. If the lock clicks and the code doesn’t return, you likely had a connector issue. If the code reappears, the lock coil or its sensing path isn’t reliable under load—replace the lid-lock assembly. - Still faulting after a new lock?
At that point, suspect the motor control module (the board that reads the lock). A professional can meter the input at the board, verify 5V reference/return, and confirm the module under load before replacing it.
What you can replace at home (and what to leave to a pro)
You can reasonably replace the lid-lock assembly and, in many cases, the short sub-harness if you’re comfortable with basic tools. Match parts to your exact model and serial; similar-looking locks can have different pinouts. Board-level work, however, is best left to a technician who can test signals safely and avoid collateral damage.
After the fix: simple things that help
Run a rinse/spin with an empty drum to confirm normal locking and clean status memory. If your model supports an error history clear or service test, run it per the user/tech sheet. Make sure the top isn’t flexing and that the lid closes squarely—misalignment can stress the latch.
Preventing codes 234/235/238/239 going forward
You don’t need special products—just a few habits that keep moisture and stress off the lock and its wiring.
- Close the lid gently. Slams fatigue the latch and shake connectors loose over time.
- Keep the lock area dry. Wipe the rim after detergent spills; avoid splashing when cleaning the top.
- Mind the load size. Overstuffed loads can rock the cabinet and strain the hinge/lock side.
- Check harness routing annually. A 60-second look for rub points and loose clips prevents most harness failures.
- Level the washer. Excess vibration shortens the life of mechanical locks and connectors.
Quick reference (bookmark this)
- Codes 234/235/238/239 = lid-lock circuit problem on many Fisher & Paykel models
- First steps: power reset → reseat lock connector → inspect harness
- Healthy lock check: ~63 Ω across the lock’s coil at room temp
- Replace the lock if readings are off or unstable; if readings are good yet codes persist, evaluate the motor control module
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