Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code 37, 114, 245, 247, 248, 249, 250 or 253

When a Fisher & Paykel washer flashes Error Code 37, 114, 245, 247, 248, 249, 250, or 253, it’s almost always the machine saying: “I can’t drain.” Different models label this slightly differently, but the root problem is the same—water isn’t leaving the tub fast enough, or the control can’t confirm that draining is happening.

Below is a clear, owner-friendly guide that explains what’s going on, what you can try safely at home, and how to keep the error from coming back.

What these drain errors really mean

In plain English, the control expects to see water level drop when it powers the drain pump. If the level doesn’t fall—or falls too slowly—the washer throws a drain-related code. That can be caused by a true blockage (sock, lint, coins), a kinked hose, a clogged standpipe, a tired pump, or a sensor/wiring issue that looks like no drain even when water is moving.

You’ll often notice one or more of these symptoms:

• The cycle stalls on Drain/Spin and the tub stays full or sloshy
• A humming sound from the base with little or no water movement
• Water draining and then syphoning back into the tub
• A lingering wet laundry load and a drain error flashing

Likely causes (from most common to less common)

Most drain errors trace back to simple installation or debris issues. Think “airflow for water”: the system needs a clear path out and enough air behind the drain to prevent siphoning.

• Kinked, crushed, or too-long drain hose behind the machine
• Standpipe or sink drain partially clogged (lint, biofilm, scale)
• Foreign object in the pump/impeller (coins, hairpins, buttons, pet hair)
• Pump filter or inlet screen clogged (model-dependent)
• Siphoning because the hose is pushed too far down the standpipe or the standpipe is too low
• Sudsy or over-dosed detergent creating foam that tricks the level sensor
• Weak or failed drain pump, worn impeller, or damaged wiring to the pump
• Pressure/level sensor or hose issue reporting the wrong water level

Quick safety note

Always disconnect power before you remove panels or touch wiring. Water + electricity is a bad mix. If the tub is full, bail excess water into a bucket first to avoid spills when you open a filter cap or hose.

Fast checks you can do (minimal tools)

Start with the easy wins—these resolve the majority of cases and take just a few minutes.

1. Straighten the drain hose
   Gently pull the washer forward and make sure the hose isn’t pinched behind it. If it’s coiled like a garden hose, shorten the path and keep a smooth arc.
2. Fix the standpipe setup
   The end of the hose should hook into the standpipe without being jammed airtight. Leave a small air gap. Keep the hose height within your installation guide’s range (commonly around ~30–96 in above the floor depending on model). Too low = siphoning, too tight = slow drain.
3. Clear the house drain
   Run water in the nearby sink or laundry tub and watch the standpipe. If it backs up, you found the culprit—clear the line before chasing the washer.
4. Try a reset and a quick drain-only run
   Cut power at the breaker for five minutes, restore power, and select a drain/spin or pump-out option. If water now exits normally, you may have fixed a marginal kink or siphon condition.

Hands-on DIY: unclog the pump path

If errors persist, check for debris at the pump. Designs vary (front-filter access vs. bottom/base access), but the logic is the same.

• Access the filter or pump cover (see your model manual for the exact panel). Place towels or a shallow tray under the access point.
• Open slowly to let trapped water out under control.
• Remove foreign objects from the filter cavity and look inside toward the impeller. The impeller should spin freely and feel magnetically “steppy,” not stuck.
• Check the small hoses connected to the pump for clogs or a coin at the inlet elbow.
• Reassemble, restore power, and test a drain/spin.

If the pump hums but won’t move water even with the cavity clean, the pump may be weak or seized.

When it’s not a blockage

Occasionally, draining is fine but the sensor isn’t reporting level change. That points to:

• A pressure hose from the tub to the sensor that’s kinked or full of residue
• A loose connector at the pressure/level sensor
• Wiring from the control board to the pump that’s loose or heat-damaged

You can reseat accessible connectors with power off. Do not blow hard into a pressure hose; if you detach it, a gentle clear and re-seat is enough.

Smart troubleshooting flow (at-a-glance)

• Easy wins: hose straight, proper standpipe height, air gap, clear house drain
• Filter/pump cavity: remove lint, coins, hairpins, pet hair
• Pump function: free-spinning impeller, no burnt smell, no rattling
• Sensor/wiring: reseat connectors, check the pressure hose path

If after these steps the washer still throws 37, 114, 245, 247, 248, 249, 250, or 253, you’ve either got a weak pump or a sensor/control path that needs professional testing under load.

A note on model differences

Fisher & Paykel uses several drain architectures across generations (SmartDrive™ top-loaders, front-load models, and compact units). Some have a user-serviceable front filter; others require accessing the base. If your model lacks an obvious filter door, consult the manual before removing panels so you don’t miss hidden clips or seals.

Prevention that actually works

You don’t need to baby the washer—just a few habits keep drains clear and pumps happy.

• Mind the pockets: coins and hairpins are drain-pump kryptonite
• Use HE detergent sparingly: too much suds slows drain, confuses sensors, and leaves residue in hoses
• Monthly hot maintenance cycle: run an empty hot cycle with a washing-machine cleaner or a dose of citric acid to dissolve lint/soap film in the drain path
• Keep the standpipe clean: a periodic enzymatic drain cleaner (used at the standpipe, not inside the washer) helps prevent biofilm choke points
• Give the hose room: don’t shove the washer tight against the wall—leave space so the hose can “breathe” without kinking
• After a move or deep clean: double-check hose placement and air gap before the first load

Quick action plan

Start simple: hose and standpipe → house drain → reset and drain test. If the error returns, clean the pump cavity and check the impeller. Still failing? Reseat level-sensor and pump connectors (power off), then retry. Persistent codes after a clean, free-spinning pump usually point to a weak pump or sensor/control issue that needs a proper bench test and the correct OEM replacement part.