Fisher & Paykel Dishwasher Error Code A10

When your Fisher & Paykel dishwasher (including DishDrawer™ models) shows Error Code A10, it’s telling you the machine isn’t getting enough water. In plain English: the control expected the tub to fill within a set time, but the flow rate/pressure wasn’t there—or water never arrived at all. The good news? Most A10 cases are simple supply or hose issues you can check in minutes.

What A10 actually means

A10 is a water-supply fault. The control monitors fill time and, in many models, a flow sensor. If the valve opens but water doesn’t reach the required level quickly enough, the cycle pauses and throws A10 to protect the heater and pump. This can be as basic as a partly closed shutoff valve or a kinked inlet hose—and only occasionally a failed valve or sensor.

Common signs you’ll notice

• The machine starts, hums, then beeps and shows A10 without much water inside
• Long “thinking” time at the beginning of a cycle, then an error
• Intermittent success: it fills one day, A10 the next (classic borderline pressure)

Smart first checks (no tools)

Start simple so you don’t waste time:

• Turn the sink hot water on for 10–15 seconds before starting a cycle. This purges cold, low-pressure water from the line and can stabilize fill.
• Verify the shutoff valve under the sink is fully open. Quarter-turn valves must be parallel to the pipe when open.
• Inspect the inlet hose from valve to dishwasher: no sharp bends, kinks, or crushing where it passes through cabinetry.
• Check for “flood-stop” hoses (bulky heads). If tripped by a prior leak, they’ll block flow and mimic low pressure.

If A10 clears after these, you likely had a marginal supply condition.

DIY troubleshooting (step by step)

If the code returns, move methodically. Cut power and water before disconnecting anything.

1. Clean the inlet screen
   At the end of the inlet hose or at the dishwasher’s water valve there’s a tiny mesh filter. Mineral grit can choke it. Remove the hose, pop the screen out gently, rinse, and reinstall.
2. Confirm real water pressure
   Briefly crack the shutoff valve with the hose aimed into a bucket. A strong, steady stream indicates house pressure is OK; a weak trickle points to a plumbing issue upstream that a plumber should address.
3. Look for air-gap or standpipe restrictions
   If you have an air gap on the sink, make sure it’s not packed with debris (it can affect fill/flow dynamics and cause odd symptoms). Clean and reassemble.
4. Inspect for moisture in the base
   Some Fisher & Paykel units will limit or halt filling if the base tray sees water (float switch). Shine a light under the unit; if you see pooled water, address the source and dry the tray before retesting.
5. Valve test (basic)
   With power off, reseat the valve connector. If you’re comfortable with a multimeter, check the coil for continuity (open coil = bad valve). If the coil reads normally but the dishwasher still won’t fill despite good pressure, the valve may be mechanically stuck and should be replaced.

If you’ve done the above and A10 still returns at the start of every cycle, it’s time for a professional diagnosis to check the control’s fill logic, flow sensor (where fitted), and the valve under load.

Why A10 happens (root causes you can prevent)

Most A10s aren’t “mystery electronics”—they’re water and plumbing realities:

• Partially closed or aging shutoff valves that don’t open fully
• Kinked or crushed hoses behind tight cabinetry
• Clogged inlet screens from municipal work or hard-water scale
• Low municipal pressure at peak times, or long runs of 3/8″ line feeding multiple fixtures
• Moisture in the base tray from a small leak triggering safety logic

Quick fixes you can try (summarized)

• Fully open the shutoff valve and purge the line with the sink tap
• Straighten or reroute the inlet hose to remove kinks
• Clean the inlet screen; reseat hose connections snugly (hand-tight plus a gentle quarter-turn)
• Verify the air gap/standpipe is clear
• Dry any water in the base tray and address the source leak

Preventive habits that keep A10 away

Keep it simple and regular:

• Run the sink hot before starting a wash—fills faster, puts less stress on the valve and control logic.
• Annual inlet screen check. A 60-second rinse prevents slow-fill surprises.
• Avoid sharp cabinet cutouts that pinch the hose; use smooth grommets and wide arcs.
• Descale periodically if you have hard water; mineral grit is the enemy of tiny valve orifices.
• After any plumbing work, flush lines at the faucet before reconnecting the dishwasher hose.

When to call in a pro

Book service if A10 persists after the checks above, if you found water in the base tray you can’t trace, or if the valve tests open-circuit/erratic. A technician will measure real-time flow, verify valve operation under voltage, check the flow sensor (if equipped), and ensure the control is commanding fill correctly.