Fisher & Paykel Oven Error Code “—”

When your Fisher & Paykel oven shows “—” on the temperature display and the controls won’t respond, it’s almost always the control panel lock (sometimes called Keylock or Control Lock). The oven isn’t broken—it’s protecting settings from accidental changes. Below is a clear, owner-friendly guide to unlock it, rule out other simple causes, and keep it from happening again.

What “—” Really Means (in plain English)

That string of dashes with an unresponsive panel is your oven saying: “I’m locked.” During a lock, dials/buttons ignore inputs, temperature shows —, and cycles won’t start. It can be engaged intentionally (child-safety) or accidentally (long press while wiping the panel, leaning against the keypad, or power blips that leave the control in a locked state).

Why It Happens

Most instances come down to one of these:

• Control Lock engaged after a long press or cleaning swipe.
• Power interruption left the board thinking it’s still in a locked or paused state.
• Moisture on the touch panel causing inputs to be rejected until it dries.

Occasionally, a sticky or worn key can mimic a “held” button, but the vast majority are lock-related and easy to clear.

Quick DIY Fix (try this first)

Start simple and methodical—no tools needed.

1. Unlock the panel
   Find the Select, Cancel, or Lock key icon on your model. Press and hold that key for 3–5 seconds. Watch for a chime or a change on the display. The — should clear and temperature numbers should return.
2. Power cycle if still stuck
   Turn the oven off at the breaker for 3–5 minutes. Restore power and try Step 1 again. Many control boards fully reset only after a true power-off.
3. Dry the touch area
   If you recently cleaned the panel, wipe it dry and give it a few minutes. Residual moisture can block or confuse capacitive keys.
4. Test a basic bake
   Set Bake 350°F (or 180°C). Confirm the display shows a real temperature and the oven begins to preheat normally.

If the panel still refuses to unlock, you could be looking at a stuck button, a damaged ribbon cable, or a control that isn’t seeing the “unlock” press correctly—time to have a pro take a look.

What’s Actually Going On Inside

Your oven’s control checks for “key held” states and safety conditions before allowing heat. When Control Lock is on, the board ignores keypad inputs and displays — for temperature. Unlocking tells the control to re-enable inputs and refresh the setpoint display. If power is unstable—or a key is effectively “held” by moisture or wear—the controller keeps the “locked” behavior as a precaution.

Smart Checks (only if you’re comfortable)

Not mandatory, but useful if you’re handy and careful.

• Look for the lock icon on the display. Many models show a small padlock when the panel is locked.
• Inspect for debris at the edges of the glass touch panel—sugar, oil, and cleaner residue can create phantom touches.
• Verify the outlet/breaker isn’t loose or tripping. Inconsistent power can leave the control in a protective state.

If you suspect a mechanical knob variant, ensure the knob is fully seated and not partially between detents.

Prevention Tips (keep “—” from popping up again)

A few habits go a long way:

• Clean, then dry, then press. After wiping the panel, wait a minute before pressing and holding any keys so moisture doesn’t trigger lock/unlock by accident.
• Mind long presses. Many models use a 3–5 second hold to toggle the lock; avoid resting fingers on the same key while the oven is on.
• Teach the household. Show everyone where the lock button is and how to unlock it—this prevents “mystery” lockouts.
• Stable power helps. If you’ve had recent flickers, consider having an electrician check the circuit; frequent brownouts can confuse digital controls.

When to Call a Technician

Skip more DIY and book service if you notice:

• The — display returns immediately after a successful unlock.
• No response from any key after dry, clean conditions and a breaker reset.
• Random beeps or phantom key presses (possible touchpad/ribbon issue).
• Visible cracks or liquid ingress behind the glass panel.

A pro can run keypad diagnostics, test the ribbon cable/connector, and determine if the UI panel or main control needs replacement—and match parts by model/serial so the fix is first-time right.