When your Fisher & Paykel oven flashes an “F + number” (for example, F03, F10, F31), it’s the control board telling you a specific circuit isn’t behaving—anything from a temperature sensor not reading correctly to a cooling fan, door-lock motor, or heating relay that isn’t responding. You don’t need to be an engineer to handle the first steps. With a careful reset, a few safe checks, and good habits, you can often separate a one-off glitch from a real fault.

First, read the room (and the code)

Make a quick note of the exact F + number, what the oven was doing (preheat, bake, broil, self-clean), and any unusual symptoms (slow preheat, noisy fan, hot control panel). That context helps you—and a technician—zero in fast.

Now let the oven cool completely. When the cooling fans stop, switch power off at the wall/breaker for 5–10 minutes. This hard reset clears transient logic errors and is safe to do.

If the same F-code returns right away, you’re dealing with a persistent condition rather than a hiccup.

What the fault usually is (in plain English)

Most “F + number” alerts trace to one of a few families of problems:

  • Temperature feedback: The oven’s sensor (NTC) isn’t reporting a believable value, or the signal isn’t reaching the control. You’ll see long or stalled preheats, overshoot, or the code appears as soon as heat is requested.
  • Airflow & cooling: The cooling fan that keeps electronics safe isn’t spinning or isn’t sensed. Expect hot control fascia, a fan that never starts, or a fan that howls and then a code.
  • Door lock / self-clean: The lock motor or its switch isn’t where the control expects it to be. The door may refuse to lock/unlock, or a code pops right after a clean cycle begins.
  • Heating circuit / relays: A bake or broil element never energizes (open element, burned connector, or a control relay that doesn’t close). Preheat stalls, one mode works but the other doesn’t.
  • Power & wiring: Loose neutral/leg, pinched harness, or heat-tired connector causes intermittent faults, especially after a kitchen remodel or a recent move.

Smart DIY steps (minimal tools, maximum signal)

Start simple. You’re just trying to confirm whether this is an environment/installation issue or a part that’s failing.

  1. Power reset, then a controlled test
    After the hard reset, run a Bake at 300°F with an empty oven. If it reaches temp cleanly, step up to Broil for 30–60 seconds. A fault that only appears on one mode hints at that mode’s element/relay path.
  2. Listen and look
    Fan should start shortly after you command heat. No fan sound at all or a raspy start followed by the same F-code points to cooling/airflow.
  3. Door behavior
    If the code appeared during or after Self-Clean, cancel the cycle, let the oven cool fully, and confirm the latch moves freely. A latch that sticks can retrigger an F-code even after a reset.
  4. Check basics around the oven
    Make sure nothing blocks ventilation slots. Confirm the unit isn’t crammed beyond spec into cabinetry—tight installs cook electronics. If you recently pushed the range back, ensure the power cord and harness aren’t pinched.

If the F-code returns at the same point each time, skip repeated resets and move to diagnosis. Repeating faults can stress relays and boards.

What you can do safely (and what to leave to a pro)

You can:

  • Verify the home breaker is fully seated, not half-tripped.
  • Remove racks and wipe obvious spills around sensor probe tips (baked sugars/grease can heat-soak the sensor area).
  • Vacuum dust from external ventilation grilles.

Leave to a pro:

  • Metering the temperature sensor (ohms at room temp and when warm).
  • Checking element continuity, relay output, and wiring under load.
  • Inspecting/servicing the cooling fan, door-lock motor, and control connectors.
  • Updating control firmware (model-dependent) or replacing heat-tired harness sections.

Prevention: habits that keep F-codes away

  • Mind ventilation: Keep the cabinet cutout and front/rear clearances within spec so hot air can escape.
  • Self-clean sparingly: It runs very hot and accelerates connector fatigue. Spot-clean with the right products between deep cleans.
  • Bake smart: Give the oven a full preheat and avoid covering racks/vents with foil that traps heat.
  • After moves or service: Recheck the install—no pinched cords, no blocked vents, unit level so the door seals and latch align.
  • Annual quick check: Power off, pull the unit slightly, vacuum dust from vents, and make sure fans spin freely.

When to call a technician

  • The same F + number returns immediately after a proper reset.
  • Preheat never completes, broil won’t energize, or fans don’t run.
  • The door won’t lock/unlock or the code follows any attempt at self-clean.
  • You smell hot-plastic, see browning near the control area, or suspect a wiring issue.

A factory-trained tech will read the stored fault history, test the sensor curve, verify relay outputs, and inspect wiring and fans under heat—then repair with the correct OEM parts for your exact model and serial.

Leave a reply