Fisher & Paykel Refrigerator Error Code Fault Code 20

When a Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 20, it’s calling out trouble with the flapper heater—the small heater that keeps the door-flapper (the air bypass/ice chute flap depending on model) from frosting up. If this heater can’t do its job, frost builds, airflow gets restricted, and cooling performance becomes inconsistent. The sooner you address it, the less strain on the sealed system and the compressor.

What this fault actually means

In plain English: the control isn’t seeing the temperature change or electrical response it expects from the flapper heater circuit. That can be a failed heater element, a loose or corroded connector, or a nicked wire that intermittently opens under vibration. In some cases the heater is fine but a frost clog or sticky flap is making the system behave like it isn’t heating.

You might notice temps drifting, louder fan noise, a door area that ices quickly, or a code that reappears after a short reset.

Likely root causes

Keep it simple—most Fault 20 cases come down to one of these:

• Heater element failure from age, moisture ingress, or hot/cold cycling
• Harness/connector issues (loose plug, oxidized pins, pinched or brittle insulation)
• Local frost build-up around the flap that prevents normal movement and confuses the control
• Control logic misread after a brownout or power blip (reset can clear this if everything else is healthy)

Safe first steps (quick and low-risk)

Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker before you touch anything.

Start with a clean reset: power off 5–10 minutes, then power on. Watch the display and listen for normal fans and compressor behavior during the next hour. If Fault 20 returns, move to a careful visual check.

DIY checks you can do without a full teardown

Work slowly, protect floors, and avoid forcing plastics in cold temps.

1. Inspect the flap area
   Open the relevant door and look for frost bridging around the flapper/chute. If you see a light frost beard, let it thaw naturally (doors closed, unit off) or use a hair dryer on cool/warm at a distance—never hot and never on wiring. Confirm the flap moves freely and seals.
2. Seal and airflow sanity check
   Wipe door gaskets clean and inspect for gaps or torn corners. A poor seal can dump humid air into the chute, overwhelming the heater and re-icing the area.
3. Condenser clean-up
   Vacuum dust from the condenser area (rear or toe-kick, model-dependent). Better airflow shortens runtimes and reduces humidity swings inside the cabinet.
4. Wiring glance (accessible areas only)
   With power off, remove the toe-kick or small interior trims if your model allows tool-less access. Look for a loose connector or obvious insulation damage in the harness running to the flap/heater area. If you find a push-connector, reseat once with a firm, straight push.

If the code returns immediately after these steps—or you see burned terminals—don’t keep cycling power. That risks stressing the control and the heater relay.

What a professional will check

Some diagnoses require tools and model-specific service data:

• Heater resistance at room temperature (open/short = bad element or broken wire)
• Voltage drive from the control to the heater during test mode
• Harness continuity end-to-end while flexing the wire run
• Control outputs & firmware notes for your exact model/series

If parts are needed, they’ll match by full model and serial so the heater assembly, harness, and connectors fit correctly.

Practical fixes you can do (if you’re confident)

Stick to low-risk actions; leave live-circuit testing and part replacement to a pro.

• Reseat any reachable heater/harness connector once
• Clear minor frost and confirm the flap opens/closes smoothly
• Clean and condition door gaskets so they seal without gaps
• Re-route any harness section that was rubbing a sharp edge (use original clips/paths)

If Fault 20 keeps returning, schedule service—repeated faulting can overheat connectors and damage the board.

Preventing Fault Code 20 in the future

You don’t need to baby the fridge; a few habits go a long way.

• Mind door time. Long open door sessions flood the chute with humid air. Load quickly; teach kids the “open, grab, close” routine.
• Keep seals clean. Wipe gaskets monthly with mild soap and water; replace if nicked or won’t hold a dollar bill snugly.
• Vacuum the condenser every 6–12 months (more often with pets). Stable temps mean less frost stress on the flap area.
• Defrost gently, never force. If you ever see icing, thaw with patience—no knives, no high heat.
• After moves or service, check alignment. Ensure the unit is level so doors close fully and the flap isn’t binding.

Quick action plan

• Power reset → observe operation for an hour
• If code returns: thaw frost, confirm flap movement, clean gaskets, vacuum condenser
• Reseat any accessible connector once
• Persistent code or visible heat/wire damage? Book professional service for heater/harness tests and the correct replacement parts

Prefer to skip the trial-and-error? Our factory-trained Fisher & Paykel specialists diagnose this fault daily and carry genuine OEM parts.