When your Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 22, it’s pointing at the water tank sensor—the part that tells the control board how much water is available for dispensing and ice production. If that reading goes missing or out-of-range, the fridge can behave unpredictably: ice stops, the dispenser quits, or the machine pauses certain functions to protect itself. The good news? In many cases this is a straightforward wiring, sensor, or tank-issue you can triage safely at home before calling in a pro.

What Fault 22 Actually Means

In plain English, the control isn’t confident about the water level. Fisher & Paykel uses a sensor (often an NTC/float or optical style, depending on series) to monitor the tank. If the board sees an open circuit, short, or implausible reading over time, it logs 22 and may disable water-related features. That’s why you’ll see Fault 22 alongside symptoms like no ice, no dispense, or intermittent beeping after a refill.

Common Signs You’ll Notice

Maybe the fridge still cools normally, but:

  • Ice maker stalls or produces small/hollow cubes
  • Water dispenser sputters or stops after a second
  • The display shows 22 shortly after you use water or during a fill
  • You hear the inlet valve click on and off without a steady flow

Likely Causes (short list, big impact)

  • Sensor failure inside the tank assembly
  • Loose, wet, or oxidized connector between sensor and main control
  • Pinched or damaged harness from a recent move or service
  • Tank/blockage issue: kinked line, scale, or debris confusing the sensor
  • Control expecting change that never comes (e.g., tank never fills due to a closed valve or clogged filter)

Safe First Steps (DIY, 10–20 minutes)

Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker before opening any panels.

  1. Confirm the obvious
    Make sure the household shutoff valve is open, the water line isn’t kinked behind the fridge, and the filter isn’t overdue. If your model has a bypass plug, test with it to rule out a clogged filter.
  2. Visual check of the tank and lines
    Open the fresh-food compartment and locate the tank area (varies by model). Look for crushed tubing, trapped air, or cloudy buildup. If you recently replaced the filter, run several cups of water to purge air.
  3. Inspect and reseat the sensor connector
    With power off, remove the small cover where the tank wiring routes. Gently reseat the sensor plug—straight in, no twisting. If you see green/white corrosion or moisture, dry the area thoroughly and reconnect.
  4. Power back on and test
    Plug in the fridge, wait for the UI to boot, and try a dispense. If 22 returns immediately, continue below.

A Closer Look: Is It the Sensor, the Wiring, or the Tank?

If you’re comfortable with basic checks, you can narrow it down without “going deep”:

  • Wiggle test: while the unit is off, lightly move the harness near the sensor plug; if it felt loose and now sits snug after reseating, you may have solved it.
  • Air/scale in tank: if you see cloudiness or slow refill, drain a liter of water through the dispenser to flush the tank and lines.
  • Repeat appearance: if Fault 22 shows up at the same time in the cycle (right after a fill or when making ice), that’s a strong hint the control isn’t seeing level change—classic sensor or wiring path issue.

If you have a multimeter and experience: with power off and the connector unplugged, measure the sensor’s resistance per your model’s spec (varies by series). An infinite/open or near-zero/short reading points to a failed sensor or damaged harness. If readings jump when you gently move the wire, the connector or cable is the culprit.

When It’s Time to Call a Pro

  • Fault 22 returns immediately after a careful reseat and flush
  • You find corrosion, water intrusion, or brittle, heat-darkened wiring
  • The tank won’t refill even with a known-good water supply and filter
  • The unit logs multiple water-system faults or disables ice entirely

A qualified technician will run model-specific diagnostics, verify the sensor signal live, load-test the inlet valve, inspect the tank for internal blockage, and replace the sensor or sub-harness with the correct Fisher & Paykel part. If needed, they’ll update or reinitialize control parameters so the board recognizes clean sensor data again.

Practical Fixes You Can Do (without over-disassembly)

  • Reseat and secure the sensor connector once; ensure a tight click/lock
  • Purge and flush: run several cups of water after any filter change to clear air
  • Straighten any kinks and restore factory routing using original clips/guides
  • Dry any damp area gently (room air or hair dryer on cool) before reconnection

If the code keeps returning, stop cycling power repeatedly—rapid restarts can stress controls. Book service and preserve the fault history for faster diagnosis.

Preventive Habits That Keep Fault 22 Away

Short lists, big payoff:

  • Replace the water filter on schedule (or sooner with hard water)
  • Keep the water line unkinked; leave proper clearance when pushing the fridge back
  • After moves or cleanings, recheck harness and tank routing so nothing is pinched
  • Every few months, dispense a liter to refresh the tank and prevent stagnant water/film
  • Address any small leaks immediately; moisture wicks into connectors and causes corrosion

Quick Action Plan

  • Power reset → confirm water supply → purge air → reseat sensor connector
  • If 22 returns: inspect tank and harness, straighten lines, test again
  • Persistent 22 or visible damage: schedule professional diagnosis and sensor/harness repair

Prefer a fast, no-guesswork fix? Our factory-trained Fisher & Paykel specialists handle this fault every day and carry genuine OEM parts.

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