Fisher & Paykel Refrigerator Error Code Fault Code 24

When a Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 24, it’s the unit’s way of saying the ice tray sensor isn’t reporting correctly. That tiny part tells the control when the tray is in position, when ice is formed, and when to cycle. If the control “loses the plot” because the sensor is out of range, loose, or corroded, the ice routine stalls and the code appears.

What this fault actually means

In plain English: the fridge can’t trust the temperature/position feedback coming from the ice tray sensor. Sometimes the sensor itself has failed; other times, the reading is fine but the wiring or connector is oxidized, pinched, or damp—so the board sees noise instead of data. Rarely, unusual conditions (very warm room, extreme humidity, doors left ajar) push readings outside the expected window and trigger the fault.

What you’ll notice before/alongside Code 24

Ice output slows to a crawl, the tray may stop mid-cycle, or you’ll hear the mechanism try and fail to rotate. You might also see clumped ice, a wet bin, or the maker skipping cycles entirely. Cooling in the fresh-food section usually stays normal—this is mostly an ice-system problem—but fix it soon to avoid a bigger mess of frozen/thawed cubes.

Quick safety reset (sometimes clears a false trip)

Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker for 5–10 minutes, then restore power. If 24 returns within a cycle or two, assume you have a real sensor/wiring issue and continue below.

Smart DIY steps (minimal tools, high signal)

1) Give the ice tray a clean slate
Empty the bin, remove obvious clumps, and make sure the tray can move freely. Sticky residue or a wedged cube can confuse position sensing.

2) Visual check, no disassembly acrobatics
With power off, open the ice compartment. Look for a sensor capsule or small harness near the tray mechanism. You’re checking for: a loose plug, green/white oxidation on pins, chafed insulation, or a wire pinched under a bracket. If you can safely reach the connector, reseat it once with a straight, firm push.

3) Room and water sanity
Very warm kitchens and repeated door openings slow ice formation and can fool “time-to-freeze” logic. Make sure the freezer is at 0°F (-18°C), doors close and seal, and the water filter isn’t overdue—poor flow stretches cycle timing.

4) Optional multimeter check
If you’re comfortable: with power off and the sensor unplugged, measure resistance across the sensor leads. A classic NTC thermistor reads a finite value at room temp (not infinite/OL, not near-zero). If it’s open or shorted, the sensor is done. If readings jump around when you gently wiggle the harness, suspect the connector.

If you spot burnt, brittle, or wet wiring—or the code returns after a clean reseat—don’t keep cycling power. Schedule service to protect the control board.

What actually causes Fault Code 24

A short list covers most jobs:

• Aging or water-ingressed sensor inside the tray assembly
• Loose/oxidized connector from vibration or condensation
• Pinched or chafed harness after a move, install, or ice-bin jam
• Out-of-spec operating conditions (door gaps, high humidity, clogged filter) that derail the timing curve

Fixes you can do (without over-tearing the unit apart)

• Reseat the ice tray sensor connector and the plug at the control end (if accessible).
• Dry light condensation with room air or a hair dryer on cool; never heat plastics.
• Replace the water filter if overdue; restore proper flow so freeze cycles behave.
• Clear and re-level the ice tray; confirm nothing rubs during rotation.

If the sensor reads open/short, or the wiring shows heat/corrosion damage, the correct repair is sensor (or sub-harness) replacement for your exact model.

When to call a pro

• Code 24 returns immediately after reset and reseat
• You measured OL/short on the sensor leads
• Visible corrosion, heat damage, or harness pinch points
• The tray stalls mid-cycle even with a clean, unclogged bin

A qualified tech will verify sensor values across temperatures, check voltage at the control, inspect the tray motor/gearbox, and install the OEM sensor/harness matched to your model so the timing profile is correct.

Keep Code 24 from coming back (easy habits, big payoff)

• Change the water filter on schedule. Low flow stretches freeze times and confuses the algorithm.
• Mind door seals. Clean gaskets and make sure the doors close fully—warm, humid air is the enemy of reliable ice cycles.
• Give it breathing room. Maintain the cutout/vent clearances so the compartment doesn’t run hot.
• Empty clumps early. If cubes bridge together, dump the bin and let the maker start fresh rather than forcing a jam.
• Quarterly quick check. Pop the ice bin, look for frost lumps around the tray and a tidy, dry harness path.