Fisher & Paykel Refrigerator Error Code Fault Code 40

When your Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 40, it’s flagging trouble with the ice maker solenoid—the small, hard-working valve that opens on command to feed water into the ice mold. If that signal or flow isn’t right, ice production gets spotty or stops altogether. The good news: you can often narrow the cause quickly and decide whether it’s a simple at-home fix or a job for a pro.

What this fault actually means

The control expects the solenoid to open and close cleanly when the fridge calls for ice. Fault Code 40 appears when the board sees behavior that looks like a stuck, weak, or electrically out-of-range solenoid, or when the signal path to it isn’t healthy (think loose connector, damaged wire, or a control that isn’t driving voltage properly).

You’ll typically notice one or more of these:

• No ice at all—or odd, intermittent batches
• Small or hollow cubes
• Water seeping near the ice maker or into the bin

Why it happens (in plain English)

Heat, vibration, and minerals do their slow work. A clogged inlet screen starves the valve; scale makes the valve slow to seal; a loose or oxidized connector fools the control into thinking the valve is open/shorted; and in fewer cases, a control board output weakens. Sometimes the solenoid itself just ages out and won’t pull strongly enough to open against water pressure.

Safe first steps before you wrench

Unplug the refrigerator or switch off the breaker. Give yourself room to work and a towel for any drips. If you’re not comfortable working around water/electric, stop here and book service.

DIY checks that actually help

Work from easiest to most revealing. You don’t need to dismantle the appliance to get useful signal.

1. Confirm water supply and filter
   Turn the saddle/angle valve fully on. If you haven’t changed the fridge filter in 6 months, replace it—a starved water line mimics a stuck solenoid. Run a few glasses of water (if you have a dispenser) to purge air.
2. Inspect the water inlet area
   Locate the water inlet valve on the back/bottom (where the house line connects). With power off, check for kinks, drips, or a wet floor. Reseat the quick-connect fittings and look for a tiny mesh screen at the inlet—if it’s visibly clogged with sediment, clean or replace it.
3. Check wiring to the ice maker solenoid
   Pop the rear lower cover (power still off). Follow the harness from the inlet valve toward the cabinet. You’re looking for loose plugs, green/white corrosion, or nicked insulation. Reseat each connector once with a firm, straight push until it clicks.
4. Power back on and listen
   Restore power and trigger a harvest/fill (many units will call for water shortly after power-up or after you empty/reset the ice bin). You should hear a distinct click and a brief water rush. No click or a harsh buzzing suggests a weak or stuck solenoid.
5. Basic voltage sanity check (optional, only if you’re experienced)
   With a multimeter and the unit calling for ice, verify the valve is getting the proper voltage (model-specific). No voltage when the control should be calling = control/wiring issue. Voltage present but no actuation = failed solenoid.

If water dribbles constantly into the mold, the valve may be failing shut (debris in the seat). If the valve cycles but cubes are tiny/hollow, you still have flow restriction—recheck filter, inlet screen, and line kinks.

When to call a technician

If Fault Code 40 returns immediately after a reset and the above checks, or you find burnt connectors, mineral-glued fittings, or wiring damage, it’s time for a pro. A technician will load-test the valve, verify control output under demand, inspect the ice maker module, and replace the solenoid or inlet assembly with the correct OEM part for your exact model. That protects the control board and prevents repeat failures.

Practical fixes you can do (without going too deep)

• Replace an overdue water filter and purge air from the lines
• Clean the inlet screen; reseat quick-connects and harness plugs
• Straighten any kinked water line behind the fridge
• If you’re confident with plumbing, swap a faulty inlet valve like-for-like (OEM part, proper seal, leak check)

If anything feels uncertain—stop. A mis-seated fitting or wrong valve can cause leaks.

Habits that prevent Fault Code 40

A little routine care saves the solenoid (and your floor):

• Change the water filter every 6 months or sooner with hard water
• Keep the refrigerator pulled to its correct clearance so the water line isn’t pinched
• Use a fridge-safe descaler cycle or periodic cleaning if your water is mineral-heavy (check your manual for approved methods)
• After any move or service, verify the line and fittings are dry, straight, and fully seated
• If you’re often away, shut the supply valve before long trips to avoid unnoticed seeping

Quick action plan

• Power reset → read/record Fault Code 40 → verify water filter & supply
• Inspect/clean inlet screen and reseat connectors → test for valve click/fill
• Code returns or no actuation? Schedule professional service for valve and control diagnostics

Want the fast, no-guesswork route? Our factory-trained Fisher & Paykel specialists diagnose this fault daily and install genuine OEM parts for a lasting fix.