Fisher & Paykel Refrigerator Error Code Fault Code 42

When a Fisher & Paykel refrigerator throws Fault Code 42, it’s telling you the ice maker isn’t getting water the way it should. The usual suspect is the fill tube—the small line that delivers water into the ice mold. If that tube freezes, kinks, or starves for water, ice production stalls and the control flags the error. The good news: most cases are fixable with a few careful checks.

What Fault Code 42 Really Means

In plain English, the control expected water to reach the ice mold during the fill window, but either the flow was blocked or the system “saw” conditions consistent with a frozen or obstructed fill path. Left alone, you’ll see no ice, partial cubes, or hollow cubes, and the code may return after resets.

You’ll often notice a few clues before the code: slower ice output, smaller cubes, a rattly solenoid click with no water sound, or a little frost plume where the tube meets the ice maker.

Why It Happens (Most Common Causes)

• Frozen fill tube after a door left ajar, airflow imbalance, or very cold freezer settings
• Weak or faulty water inlet valve that doesn’t open fully under load
• Kinked/blocked water line behind the fridge or at the cabinet pass-through
• Low household water pressure or a partially closed saddle valve
• Clogged water filter restricting flow after a few months of use

Safe First Step: Power Reset, Then Listen

Unplug (or switch off the breaker) for 5–10 minutes. Restore power and let the unit stabilize. If the code returns, run an ice harvest/fill cycle if your model allows it—listen for the valve click followed by a gentle fill sound. Click with no water sound points to a blockage, freeze, or no supply.

DIY Fixes You Can Try (Minimal Tools)

1. Thaw the fill tube carefully
   Unplug the fridge. At the ice maker entry point, warm the area with a hair dryer on low or let the unit sit unplugged with the freezer door open for a short period. Don’t use sharp tools or high heat—mold and gaskets can warp. When thawed, you should be able to feel a clear, flexible tube (no ice nugget inside).
2. Check the water filter and supply
   If your filter is older than 6 months—or after heavy use—replace it. Confirm the shutoff/saddle valve is fully open and the household line isn’t kinked behind the fridge. If you can, briefly dispense water (on models with a dispenser) to confirm strong flow.
3. Inspect for kinks
   Pull the fridge straight out a few inches. Make sure the ¼” water line isn’t bent sharply or pinched by cabinetry or the leveling leg. Re-route gently; avoid tight radii.
4. Test fill again
   Restore power, wait for the next harvest, or trigger a test fill if your model supports it. If you hear the valve and see water enter the mold, you’ve likely solved it.

If you’re comfortable with a multimeter and have access: with power off and valve disconnected, check the valve coil resistance (model-specific values vary, but an open or shorted coil is a clear fail). Only proceed if you know how to test safely.

When to Call a Pro

• The tube refreezes quickly after thawing (possible airflow or heater issue, if equipped)
• Valve clicks but no water reaches the mold despite good pressure and a new filter
• You found brittle tubing, corroded connectors, or evidence of a slow leak
• The code returns after a power reset and a successful one-time fill

A technician will verify water pressure, test the inlet valve under load, inspect the fill tube heater (if your model has one), check for air leaks that drive subzero frosting at the tube, and rule out control-side timing faults.

Practical Fixes That Don’t Void Anything

• Replace an overdue water filter and note the date
• Nudge freezer temp to the manufacturer’s spec (usually around 0°F / −18°C) to avoid overchilling the fill corner
• Ensure the ice bin and maker arm aren’t jammed by oversized items
• Keep the rear water line clear of sharp bends when you push the fridge back

Preventing Fault Code 42 Going Forward

A few small habits keep ice production boring and reliable:

• Filter cadence: Swap the filter every 6 months (or earlier with heavy use/hard water).
• Load for airflow: Don’t overpack the top shelf right under the ice area; let cold air circulate.
• Close the doors firmly: A slightly open freezer door invites frost at the fill tube.
• Mind water pressure: If your home pressure is borderline, avoid inline “extra” filters or narrow saddle valves—use a full-port shutoff.
• Seasonal quick check: Every couple months, eyeball the tube entry for frost feathers and listen during a fill.

Quick Action Plan (Bookmark This)

• Reset power → listen for valve + water sound
• If frozen: thaw fill tube gently → replace filter → confirm water line and valve fully open
• Still no fill or the code returns: schedule professional service for valve/pressure/airflow diagnostics

Prefer a fast, no-guesswork fix? Our factory-trained Fisher & Paykel specialists handle these faults daily and use genuine OEM parts.