Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code 136 or 137

When a Fisher & Paykel washer throws Error 136 or 137, the control is telling you the drive motor isn’t turning when it should. Sometimes that’s a true motor failure, but just as often it’s a jam, a harness/connector issue, or a control module that can’t “see” the motor correctly. The good news: a few safe checks can separate a simple obstruction from a real component fault.

What the Fault Really Means

In plain English, the washer commanded a spin or agitation, but the motor didn’t move (or the control didn’t detect movement). Fisher & Paykel’s design monitors motor rotation; if the basket is seized by a sock wedged under the drum, if the rotor can’t start under load, or if the control isn’t getting feedback, you’ll see 136/137.

You’ll usually notice one or more of these: a cycle that stalls at spin, a brief hum and stop, the basket refusing to ramp up, or errors that appear right after draining.

Likely Causes (from most common to less common)

• Mechanical obstruction between the spin basket and outer tub (small garments, debris, a bent splash guard).
• Overloaded or off-balance load that can’t accelerate.
• Worn motor (stalled rotor, failed hall/position sensor, water ingress).
• Loose or oxidized connectors in the motor harness or control module.
• Motor control module fault (rare, but possible after surges or repeated stalls).

Quick Safety Check

Unplug the washer before you inspect anything. Water + line voltage is not forgiving. If you need to tilt or move the unit, protect the floor and avoid kinking hoses.

Smart DIY: Short, Targeted Checks

Start with the easy wins. These steps don’t require tearing the machine apart, and they give you high “signal” about where the fault lives.

1. Spin basket by hand
   With the door open and power off, try rotating the basket. It should turn smoothly with light resistance. A gritty spot, a hard stop, or scraping sound points to something lodged between basket and tub.
2. Hunt for a jam
   Use a flashlight to peer around the basket rim. Look for thin garments, string, labels, or foreign objects. If you see something, gently tease it free with long-nose pliers or a plastic trim tool—no sharp screwdrivers against the stainless.
3. Lighten and rebalance
   Overloads can prevent initial acceleration. Remove a few heavy items (towels, jeans) and redistribute the rest so weight is even, then try a Spin/Drain cycle.
4. Soft reset
   Leave the washer unplugged 5–10 minutes, plug back in, and reselect a spin. If 136/137 returns immediately after a good reset and an empty basket, the issue is beyond a one-off glitch.

If the basket does spin freely by hand and the code persists, the motor or its control path is the next suspect.

Deeper at Home

These aren’t mandatory, but they can save time.

• Access the motor area
  Remove the rear or bottom service panel (varies by model). Inspect the motor connector and harness: look for oxidation (green/white), a loose latch, or chafe marks. Reseat the plug once—firm, straight push until it clicks.
• Rotor movement test
  With the belt off (if belt-driven), rotate the motor shaft. It should turn smoothly. Any grinding, wobble, or hard spots suggest bearing or rotor issues.
• Meter basics (optional)
  If you own a multimeter and know how to use it, you can check for open/short on the motor windings per the service guide values for your model. Out-of-range readings point to a failed motor or sensor.

If you find burnt connectors, a wet control area, or mechanical damage, stop and plan on parts replacement rather than repeated resets.

What Usually Fixes It

Most successful repairs for 136/137 fall into one of three buckets:

• Remove the obstruction
  Free the garment or debris between basket and tub; confirm smooth hand-spin and rerun a spin test.
• Replace the drive motor
  If the basket is free but the motor hums, stalls, or fails continuity/position feedback checks, swap the motor as a complete assembly matched to your model.
• Repair the control path
  Clean/replace a heat-stressed connector, repair a damaged harness section, or (when confirmed) replace the motor control module. Control replacement should come last, after mechanical and motor tests.

Simple Habits That Prevent a Repeat

You don’t need a toolbox—just consistent routines that keep the motor from fighting physics.

• Pocket patrol
  Empty pockets and check cuffs for coins, cards, bra wires, and string that love to migrate under the basket.
• Use wash bags
  Net bags for small items (baby socks, lingerie straps) stop “under-basket tourists.”
• Right-size the load
  Big, dense loads (bath sheets, duvets) need room to tumble. Aim for a loosely filled drum so the motor can ramp smoothly.
• Level the machine
  A washer that rocks makes the motor work harder. Adjust feet until the unit is solid and level; recheck after moving.
• Moisture control
  Keep the rear/bottom areas dry. If you see leaks, fix them; moisture corrodes connectors and stresses electronics.
• Power quality
  Avoid frequent mid-cycle interruptions. If your outlet is shared with heavy loads, consider a dedicated circuit per code and the installation manual.

Quick Action Plan

• Unplug → hand-spin basket. If stiff or noisy, remove the obstruction.
• If basket spins freely → lighten/rebalance and try Spin/Drain.
• If 136/137 returns → reseat motor connector; inspect harness.
• Still failing with a free basket → plan for motor replacement; if a new motor doesn’t restore spin, test/replace the motor control module.

When to Stop DIY

If you smell insulation, see scorched plugs, or the drum won’t turn by hand, it’s time for professional service. Continued attempts can turn a simple harness or motor swap into a control-board failure.