Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code 21, 26, 27, 49, 50 or 246

When a Fisher & Paykel washer throws 21, 26, 27, 49, 50, or 246, it’s usually pointing to the water inlet valve circuit. In plain English: the washer isn’t happy with how water is getting into the machine. That could be a sensor reading that doesn’t make sense, a sticky solenoid, or a wiring hiccup that keeps the valve from opening as commanded.

What this fault actually means

Modern washers monitor how quickly and how much water enters the tub. If the control tells a valve to open and the flow or electrical feedback doesn’t match expectations, you’ll see one of these codes. Sometimes the valve is truly failed. Other times the problem is upstream (low water pressure, closed or kinked supply) or electrical (loose connector, damaged harness).

You might notice a long fill, a no-fill with a soft humming sound, or a cycle that stalls early. On certain models the drum may briefly tumble while waiting, then stop and post one of the codes above.

Quick sanity checks (no tools yet)

Start with the easy wins before you touch a screwdriver. Make sure both hot and cold supply valves are fully open, hoses aren’t kinked, and household water pressure is normal. If you use mesh inlet filters at the hose ends, pull them, rinse out grit, and reseat them. Power the washer off for five minutes and retry a Normal cycle—transient glitches sometimes clear.

Common causes (and what they look like)

• Clogged inlet screens: slow or uneven fill; one hose sprays harder than the other when disconnected.
• Weak or stuck solenoid: steady hum from the valve with no water entering.
• Loose/oxidized connectors: intermittent fills that fail more often on one temperature setting.
• Damaged harness: movement or vibration changes the symptom; wiggling the loom near the valve makes it cut in or out.
• Low line pressure: fills crawl, codes appear only during certain parts of the cycle.

DIY steps you can do safely

Always unplug the washer first and keep the floor dry. Work methodically; take photos before you disconnect anything.

1. Inspect and clean inlet filters
   Shut off both water supplies and remove the hoses at the back of the washer. Inside each washer port is a tiny mesh screen—flush away grit under running water. Check hose gaskets while you’re there. Reconnect hoses snugly (hand-tight plus a quarter turn).
2. Check the harness and connectors
   Access the valve assembly (usually behind the top/back cover). With power still off, reseat the multi-pin connector on the valve and the mating plug at the control board if accessible. Look for green/white oxidation, heat discoloration, or pins that don’t feel snug.
3. Basic resistance test (for the confident DIYer)
   If you own a multimeter, unplug the valve and measure each solenoid coil. A healthy Fisher & Paykel inlet valve typically reads around 61 Ω per coil at room temperature. An open circuit (∞) or short (near 0 Ω) indicates a failed coil. Readings that jump wildly when you gently flex the wires suggest cracked conductors or a bad crimp.
4. Reassemble and test
   Restore power and run a quick fill test (Normal cycle). Listen for the valve clicking open and water entering promptly. If the code returns in the same place, the control still isn’t seeing valid fill behavior.

When replacement makes sense

If a coil is out of spec, the connector is heat-scarred, or cleaning the screens didn’t change anything, replacing the complete water inlet valve assembly is usually the right move. It ensures matched coils and fresh seals. While swapping the part, route the harness exactly as originally clipped so it won’t chafe against metal or get tensioned when the cabinet vibrates.

Good habits that prevent the codes from coming back

Keep the water path clean and the electronics happy—small habits go a long way.

• Flush hot water before a cycle if the laundry room has a long run; very cold starts can extend fill times.
• Descale periodically in hard-water areas; mineral buildup narrows screens and solenoid passages.
• Don’t overtighten hoses; crushed gaskets can shed rubber and clog screens.
• Secure the washer so it doesn’t “walk”—vibration loosens connectors over time.
• Peek under the lid/back annually for dust and check that the harness clips are still holding the loom away from sharp edges.

A simple action plan

Try this order to save time:

• Open both supply valves fully → straighten hoses → clean inlet screens.
• Power reset five minutes → run a Normal fill test.
• If the code returns: unplug → reseat valve and control connectors → inspect harness.
• Meter coils (~61 Ω target).
• Replace the valve assembly if a coil is out of range or wiring damage is present.

If you’d like, share your exact model number and what you’ve tested so far. I can tailor the valve part reference, expected coil specs by sub-model, and the fastest access route for your cabinet style.