Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code “no hot”

When a Fisher & Paykel washer flashes “no hot”, it isn’t seeing the hot-water temperature or flow the cycle expects. That can be as simple as a tap that isn’t fully open—or as specific as a clogged inlet screen or a misrouted hose. The good news: most “no hot” issues are quick to diagnose at home with a few careful checks.

What this error actually means

Your washer monitors incoming water and expects a minimum hot-side temperature/flow when you choose Warm/Hot/Sanitize programs. If the machine detects insufficient temperature rise or hot water isn’t arriving at all, it pauses and reports “no hot.” You might also notice longer fills, lukewarm drum water, or cycles that never reach target temps.

The most common culprits (fast overview)

• Hot tap not fully open or supply turned off
• Crossed hoses (hot hose connected to the cold tap, and vice versa)
• Kinked or crushed inlet hose restricting flow
• Blocked inlet filters (grit or scale in the hose screens or valve)
• Low source temperature (tankless heater delay, anti-scald mixing valve set too low, seasonal dips)
• Aging or damaged hoses that collapse under pressure

Step-by-step: smart DIY fixes

Start with the easy things first. Work with the washer unplugged and taps closed when disconnecting hoses.

1. Confirm hot water at the sink
   Run the nearest faucet until it’s genuinely hot. If your home uses a tankless heater, give it a minute—washers can call for water in short bursts that don’t always trigger full heat.
2. Open the hot tap fully
   Make sure the hot isolation valve behind/under the washer is completely open. Partially open valves cause slow fill and lukewarm mixes.
3. Check hose routing
   Red to hot, blue to cold—at both the tap and the washer. Crossed hoses are a classic cause of “no hot,” especially after an install or move.
4. Eliminate kinks
   Pull the machine forward a few inches and trace each hose. Straighten any sharp bends; replace a hose that looks flattened or cracked.
5. Clean the inlet filters
   Close both taps, unscrew the hoses at the washer side, and gently remove the tiny mesh screens inside the ports. Rinse away grit/mineral flakes; avoid puncturing the mesh. Refit screens and reconnect hoses snugly—hand-tight plus a gentle quarter-turn.
6. Cold-season & mixing-valve realities
   If your hot water is capped by a mixing valve (common for scald protection) or winter inlet temps are very low, select Warm instead of Hot, or run the hot faucet near the washer for 30–60 seconds before starting a cycle so true hot reaches the machine.

After these steps, run a Warm test cycle. If the washer fills promptly and the drum water feels warm within a few minutes, you’re back in business.

When the error persists

Sometimes the external plumbing checks out but the washer still throws “no hot.” Without going deep into disassembly, you can narrow it down:

• Start a Cold cycle. If Cold fills fast but Warm/Hot fails, the problem is isolated to the hot side (tap, hose, screen, or hot inlet valve).
• Start a Warm cycle after running the nearby faucet hot. If the machine still flags “no hot,” and you’ve confirmed screens/hoses are clear, the hot inlet valve may be sticking or the control isn’t seeing the expected temperature rise. That’s the point to schedule service.

Care tips that prevent “no hot” in the future

Short, simple habits go a long way:

• Flush the screens twice a year. Mineral grit and pipe scale are normal—don’t wait until flow is choked.
• Give hoses room. Keep at least a gentle loop behind the washer so they don’t kink when the unit shifts during spin.
• Use braided stainless hoses. They resist collapse and last longer than basic rubber lines.
• Mind tankless heat. If you have an on-demand heater, choose cycles that call for steady fills, or pre-run the hot faucet so the heater is already engaged.
• Seasonal sanity checks. In winter, a “Hot” selection can land closer to warm if the mixing valve is set conservative—bump to a warmer program only when needed.

Quick reference (copy-and-keep)

• Hot at nearby faucet? Yes → proceed. No → solve house hot-water issue first.
• Taps fully open? Hoses uncrossed and unkinked?
• Inlet screens cleaned and reseated?
• Test Warm after pre-running hot at the sink.

If the washer still reports “no hot,” you’ve ruled out supply and hose issues—the hot inlet valve or internal sensing logic likely needs a technician’s diagnosis.