Fisher & Paykel Washer Error Code “no tAP”

When a Fisher & Paykel washer flashes “no tAP,” it’s telling you the machine isn’t getting enough water. That can be as simple as a closed faucet—or as sneaky as a clogged inlet screen or a siphon issue at the drain. The good news: most fixes are quick, safe, and doable without special tools.

What the “no tAP” fault actually is

Your washer expects water flow as soon as it opens the inlet valves. If the control doesn’t see the tub filling within a set time, it throws no tAP. In real life, that usually means one of three things: water isn’t turned on, something is restricting flow, or water is being pulled out as fast as it enters (siphoning).

First things first (simple checks)

Start with the basics and work up only if the code returns.

• Turn both taps fully on. Many Fisher & Paykel models expect hot and cold connected and open—even if you chose a cold wash.
• Verify hose connections. Hand-tight, straight, and seated to the valve inlets at the back of the washer (no cross-threading).
• Look for kinks. A tight bend behind the cabinet can flatten a hose and starve the machine.

If the code clears and the washer fills normally, you’re done. If it comes back, continue below.

Likely causes (and how to confirm them)

Sometimes “no tAP” isn’t the faucet—it’s the path water takes to get to (or stay in) the tub.

Clogged inlet filters
Inside each hose connection at the washer is a tiny mesh screen. Sediment from the building line collects here and throttles flow. Remove the hoses (water off first), ease out the screens, and rinse debris. If a screen is torn or the mesh is packed solid, replace it.

Weak supply flow
Very low building pressure or partially closed angle stops will trigger the fault. Do the quick “bucket test”: disconnect a hose, hold it over a bucket, and crack the tap—strong, steady flow should fill a large pitcher quickly. Thin, sputtering flow points to a supply issue upstream.

Kinked or collapsing hose
Rubber hoses can collapse when the washer vibrates back against the wall. Re-route for a gentle curve, or upgrade to braided stainless hoses for better kink resistance.

Siphoning through the drain
If the drain hose is shoved too far down the standpipe or sits too low, water can siphon out while the washer tries to fill—so it looks like no water is arriving. Pull the hose up to the height the installation guide specifies and secure it with a hook or zip tie. Make sure there’s an air gap at the standpipe top (don’t tape it closed).

Debris inside the hose or valve
Grit can lodge at the hose gasket or at the washer’s inlet valve. After cleaning screens, flush each hose into a bucket for a few seconds to clear the line, then reconnect and test.

DIY step-by-step (safe and effective)

Keep it simple, methodical, and dry.

1. Power off, water off. Unplug the washer and close both taps.
2. Remove hoses. Place a towel or tray behind the unit.
3. Clean the inlet screens. Rinse the tiny meshes at the washer inlets; replace if torn.
4. Flush the supply. Briefly open each tap into a bucket to purge sediment.
5. Reattach with care. Hand-tighten, then a slight snug with pliers—no over-torque.
6. Set the drain hose height. Adjust to the manual-recommended height; ensure an air gap.
7. Test fill. Restore power and water; run a fill or quick cycle. Watch the initial 1–2 minutes for healthy flow.

If “no tAP” returns after these steps, the machine may have an internal restriction (inlet valve or flow sensor) that needs a professional test.

Good habits that prevent “no tAP”

You don’t need to baby the washer—just build a few routines into your calendar.

• Clean inlet screens every 6–12 months, more often if you notice cloudy water or frequent construction in your area.
• Replace hoses about every 5 years, or sooner if you see bulges, cracks, or corrosion at the fittings.
• Leave breathing room behind the cabinet so hoses don’t kink when the washer vibrates.
• Set the drain correctly any time you move or service the unit; an improper drain height is a classic cause of repeat fill faults.
• Run a hot cycle periodically. It helps keep valves moving and can flush residue that builds when you wash mostly cold.

Quick reference (keep for later)

• Code shows at start? Taps on, hoses unkinked, screens clean.
• Fills then faults? Check drain hose height/air gap for siphoning.
• Still failing after resets and cleaning? Supply pressure or inlet valve likely needs diagnosis.

With a few minutes of sensible checks, most Fisher & Paykel “no tAP” errors disappear for good. If the code persists after the steps above, it’s a strong sign the inlet valve or internal wiring/flow sensing needs a hands-on evaluation.